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| Author |
Message |
| 20 new of 31 responses total. |
tod
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response 12 of 31:
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Jul 22 20:06 UTC 2003 |
This response has been erased.
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rcurl
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response 13 of 31:
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Jul 22 21:55 UTC 2003 |
terraserver-usa.com does that. It gives you a map with an address location
marked, plus the latitude and longitude.
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tod
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response 14 of 31:
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Jul 22 22:51 UTC 2003 |
This response has been erased.
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rcurl
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response 15 of 31:
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Jul 23 00:29 UTC 2003 |
You can look up lat and lon in several online map servers. Topozone is
one that also supports other coordinate systems, such as UTM. I think
it can also be done in Terraserver. Maybe not Mapquest....
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jmsaul
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response 16 of 31:
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Jul 23 03:07 UTC 2003 |
Thanks, Rane -- that's great!
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pvn
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response 17 of 31:
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Jul 23 04:35 UTC 2003 |
Geek. I tell yah.
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jmsaul
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response 18 of 31:
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Jul 23 11:13 UTC 2003 |
I've never denied it.
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pvn
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response 19 of 31:
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Jul 23 13:11 UTC 2003 |
I was talking about rcurl.
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sabre
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response 20 of 31:
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Jul 23 15:08 UTC 2003 |
That's right jmsaul...he wasn't talking to you. You don't have the brains to
be a geek. You are however..UGLY enough.
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gull
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response 21 of 31:
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Jul 23 15:23 UTC 2003 |
Finding the burned-out bulb in a string of Christmas lights used to
drive me nuts, until a textbook I had in college explained the
least-effort way to do it using an ohmmeter as an example of the
divide-and-conquer method of troubleshooting.
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tod
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response 22 of 31:
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Jul 23 17:31 UTC 2003 |
This response has been erased.
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rcurl
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response 23 of 31:
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Jul 23 17:48 UTC 2003 |
It is easy to find the burned out bulb if the bulbs are in parallel.
In any case, everything has a measurable resistance.
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gull
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response 24 of 31:
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Jul 23 19:41 UTC 2003 |
No, I mean an ohmmeter. Here's the procedure:
Unplug the lights. Use alligator clips to bridge the two plug prongs
together and connect to one of the ohmmeter leads. Find the middle of
the string and pull out one bulb. Test each contact in the socket for
continuity with the other ohmmeter lead. The side that has no
continuity is the side the bad bulb is on; put the bulb you took out
back in and then remove the bulb from the middle of that half-string.
Repeat the process until you've narrowed it down to just a few bulbs,
then test individually. (Special case: If you have continuity on both
contacts of the socket, you just pulled out the bad bulb.)
This is pretty quick because each time you test, you cut the number of
possible bad bulbs in half.
If you try this, it's important to know that most 100-bulb strings are
actually two 50-bulb strings in parallel.
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tod
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response 25 of 31:
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Jul 23 20:39 UTC 2003 |
This response has been erased.
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spectrum
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response 26 of 31:
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Jul 23 21:30 UTC 2003 |
You're a geek if your pinky is longer than your pecker.
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tod
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response 27 of 31:
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Jul 23 21:32 UTC 2003 |
This response has been erased.
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sabre
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response 28 of 31:
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Jul 23 21:51 UTC 2003 |
RE#26
I guess that makes you a geek Fairy er...I mean Larry
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gull
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response 29 of 31:
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Jul 24 19:27 UTC 2003 |
Re #25: It doesn't, but most strings don't have bulbs in parallel, they
have them in series. If you're troubleshooting a string that has two
series strings wired in parallel, like most 100-bulb strings, you'll
need to open the string you're not troubleshooting by removing a bulb so
it doesn't affect your results.
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rcurl
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response 30 of 31:
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Jul 25 00:43 UTC 2003 |
Why? The parallel set won't change the effect of a burned out bulb in
the set you are testing with the ohm-meter: a burned out bulb there will still
cause one side to be "open".
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gull
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response 31 of 31:
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Jul 25 12:47 UTC 2003 |
Yeah, you're right, And in fact I've done it that way. I got my head
twisted around it wrong yesterday when I was trying to think about it.
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