Hi there! More on my tour de America. After leaving Idaho (of which we crossed the handle of the pan) we made our way to Thompson Falls. We camped at some high school, that apparantly has brought many State champions at various kinds of spots. In T Falls we ate at the Elks, somekind of hunting-charity-free mason- ish club. Later, the next day we actually heard gunshots being fired while we cycled past (this was quite close to Montana Border). Militia? This day went to Missoula, some 35,000 souls city. here we had a day resting time. Time to recover from the hardships of Washingtom cycling. Here some people left the group, as they had signed up for a one week tour. Newbies cometh. The next day brought us to Darby. A tourist traplike town that could have come right out of a Disney park. Temperatures staretd to drop. The next they dropped further. We climbed our second pass of the trip, and the third (more or less part of nr. 1) The descend was bitter cold. Lunch break (outside in a party tent) was brief and all about food. No niceties. Desending to Wisdom, but that didn't last long. head winds, icy cold and strong. 24 miles long. My feet were numb all over. In the hamlet Wisdom we drank a cup of coffee to recover and a discussion on the Iraq war with the tenant/owner lady and the one other customer. Nice people. From this point it was tail winds. with a steady 20-30 miles/hour I made the last stage to Jackson (yet another hamlet town) with the biker Hot Springs lodge. Man, did I get drunk! had a good time though, with the other bikers. Today, it was not freezing (overnight it had, but during the day not) Much, much better. Dillon is the name of the town we are staying currently. We had a very short stage, which I dread, does not promise much good for tomorrow. CU all soon, I hope! Rick88 responses total.
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Where the hell is that?
Wall Drug is in Wall, South Dakota. If you're heading West on I-90, it's the first big concentration of hotels in the Badlands/Mount Rushmore area.
(I've seen "Where the hell is Wall Drug?" bumperstickers)
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Ennis, Montana. I believe this is our final day in Montana. We cycled from Dillon, a 77 mile stage. For the first time in a week the weather actually was nice. First league, to the water stop at mile 21 we made an average of 27 ml./hr. Not bad. No need to say lunch was at ten o'clock. (We leave at seven.) After lunch in Hamiltonn we cycled on to Virginia city, preceded by Nevada City.. Both are touristlike ghost towns, of which the latter is a real remains of a gold diggers mining city. Interesting. 'Little Big Man' with Dustin Hoffmann was partly shot there. In Virgina city the climb started. 3 miles of a steady 6-8% The descend into Ennis. 9 miles of the same, maybe steeper. Halfway to road opened to wide vista and we were treated witrh magnifient view on Ennis and the valley.
Let me repeat the Michigan info for those who wish to meet me: Monday July 28th: Farwell: Farwell High School 371 Main Street Tuesday July 29th: Frankenmuth E.F. Rittermueller Middle School 965 E Genesee
*sigh* wished you had repeated the Spokane info. Maybe next time.
All's still well! After Wesrt Yeloowstone, where we spotted a live bear roaming the camping site (we had to store all food items bear safe). Bit scary night, though. Yet, the next to Ashton , Idaho (a nothing that hasn't left any memories) The day after that across Grand Teton Pass (8,500 ft) to bring us in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. I was chicken descending, but witha little help from my friends I made it into town. Tourist trap revisited. Monday was our day off. Yellowstone Park, here I come. Loads of pictures I did take there, I can recommend everybody to go there. Veeery beautiful. The day after that we cycled across yet another pass, the Pogwotee Pass (9,553 ft) with the crossing of this pass we left the forested areas en went into Wyoming's deserts. Hot! Hot hot in more than a week of chills. Strange land with alle those climate zones so close together. Well, the city was named Dubois (962 souls) and today we are in Riverton, after cyclingf for a day through desert like Buttes and such. I am still not tired of cycling. In fact: I feel stronger with each passing day. Got a cold, though.
I think I am starting to repeat myself. Wyoming is finally nearing to its end. Next will be thrilling South Dakota. I can't wait for tailwinds on the endless plains. Provided we won't have to do the so-called rolling hills. They never seem to be steep enough to let you actually roll to the sumiit of the next hill. With head winds it gets worse. OK, what have we been up to besides drinking Margaritas last Saturday to celibrate the completion of week nr. 3. The mountain passes have been completed. The highest were respectively Teton Pass (8,500 ft), Pogwotee Pass (9,658 ft) and Powder River Pass (9,666 ft) Next to this I think we have done at least eight other mountain passes. But things are beginning to blend into each other. Well, we have visited Yellowstone, and we have done Devil's Tower (the mountain from Close Encounters of the Third Kind) That's were we guzzled way too many margaritas untill we started eyeing margaritas, or at least, who could pass for a margarita, haha. Nah, to be honest, it was a good party and everybody enjoyed it. Bets were made. I fear I am going to lose my red gore tex rain jacket to a woman called Theresa. She can have it. I like her way too much. Next time more guys, Rick
On average you are going downhill and on average the winds blow from the west. I remember South Dakota for its wildflowers and pelicans.
South Dakota has pelicans? I thought they were coastal birds.
They are. That must have been a brainfart. :)
From the UM Museum of Zoology's Animal Diversity Web project,
[http://animaldiversity.ummz.umich.edu/accounts/pelecanus/p._occidentalis$n
arrative.html]
"Brown pelicans are strictly coastal, and living on the Pacific,
Atlantic, and Gulf coasts north to Nova Scotia. . . . Brown Pelicans
live in all habitats on the Pacific, Atlantic, and Gulf coasts. They are
rarely seen inland."
According to this website, the Brown (Pelecanus occidentalis) is the only
pelican in the Western Hemisphere; the only other member of its genus, the
Eastern (Great) White Pelican (Pelecanus onocrotalus) is native to large swaths
of the Eastern Hemisphere, but does not cross the ocean.
What is the bird that stores fish in its oversized beak? We saw a lot of those and were told they migrated north in the summer to the lakes in South Dakota. Websters describes a pelican as any of a genus (Pelecanus) of large web-footed birds with a very large bill and distensible gular pouch in which fish are caught. We were also told they were pelicans.
A web search on pelican and Dakota turned up a Pelican Pass, a Pelican Lake Rec. Area, and a site titled Distribution of the American White Pelican in South Dakota. There are a lot of lakes there. We followed one road that went straight to a lake and wondered what to do next until we noticed the road (a sand trail) went around the lake and then straight on from the other side. There are also egrets. Florida is one of the winter homes. Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge.
There are distribution maps for the Brown Pelican and the American White Pelican, in the contiguous United States, accessible through http://www.mbr-pwrc.usgs.gov/bbs/htm96/map617/all.html. The Brown Pelican is primarily coastal, and the American White Pelican is primarily inland. Their ranges seem to overlap only in some areas near the central California coast.
Huh. Sure enough, there *are* pelicans in South Dakota.
well. whaddaya know.
Bisons, bisons, bisons. I have seen quite a lot of them. A whole herd of at least 200 crossed the street in Custer national Park, the other day. The ride itself Needles Highway, near Custer, was way beautiful too! After that came the pain. Iron Road towards Rapid City and doing Mt. Rushmore on the side. Scary descent, I must say. (for somebody with fear of heights, that is) The day before Mt. Rushmore, we obviously also paid a visit to the Crazy Horse Monument, which was pretty great too. The wind factor is becoming more and more of a sore. I totally hate headwinds as they drain me from all me rserves, which makes cycling so much harder. Since we have left the Rockies temperatures have been rising forever. Yesterday we cycled in the 100s, with accompanying chills/shivers (too much drink too littel food and too hot weather) Got my third sunburn, block or no. But the Black Hills (about the last place with trees before getting well into Minnesota) Oh yes, I cometh closer and closer to Ann Arbor. According to Martin I had a narrow escape from death, the other day, as a hige truck started shearing in a steep desent (6% grade) while I was carefully desending too, toally unaware of what came up behind me. These trucks go way too fast to be safe. Thay are a hazard. Se, it was supposed to be in low gear with such a descent, bu they intentionally keep ignoring traffic rules. Anyway, I am still alive. A woman pulled over yesterday as we were drinking water from our pre- arranged supplies, and she told us the place was teeming with ratlers. That provides quite another perspective to the meaning of having a fine drink.
Stay calm. Rattlesnakes warn you of their presence if you don't surprise them. You would have to go out of your way to be bitten. My closest encounter was while hiking up a trail in California. A rattlesnake crossed my path at that moment and I had to step over it. It went on its merry way. Your trip sounds marvelous - and tough.
I've heard that rattlesnake meat is pretty good.
If cooked right, it is pretty good.
Today we cycled from DeSMet (SD) towards Watertown, SD. This means we're 10 miles from the Minnesota border. Tomorrow we'll ride into the other state. SD would be very boring if it weren't for the wind. We have had headwinds for the better of one week, say 450 miles. It's not funny anymore. My body totally agrees with that statement. I was very tired, yesterday, after the ride. A nd predictions look pretty bleak. Yesterday we had our second Tornado alert. But we still got to be on the road. For the rest nothing new but the fact that since today I got Shimano Ultegra, front and rear, on my bike. Yea!
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Southeast Minnesota has a very nice bike trail on an abandoned railway, with shade. It continues into Wisconsin, where one town built free hot showers.
I think we'll be doing that. Or so I have been told. The sooner we get out of this wind, the better.
Houston Minnesota (the start of the trail) has a cooperative bike store run by the public schools to teach children useful skills. The person who works there is very nice. In the winter they build wheels. This is a town of 1000 and there is a waiting list for the 16 places in the class. If you go through La Crosse, they have a lovely bike trail cutting through town in a marsh, which goes under all the roads and takes you lots of useful places such as the train station, community garden, university and downtown with food coop.
You've probably been told that DeSmet is the place where the later books in the Little House series took place. The Long Winter is a really powerful description of how they almost starved to death one winter when the railroad tracks east into Minnesota were completely blocked by snow fron November until May. You're probably biking along those tracks now.
O yes, e have bee told about the Little House on the prairie. DeSmet calls itself the Little Town on the Prarie. Met somne crazy and very drunk locals there. The town hussy included. She was all over us bikers. But that's another story. Time flies when you're having fun. We have officially passed the haflway point. Man, it saddens me toe realise that I will have to say goodby to all these wonderful people I have spent so much time with, shared weather, pain, grief, joy and drink with. Part of me wishes this could go on forever. Another part says, no more headwinds, please. Fortunately those winds have ceased two days ago and I hope it stay that way. So, we left South Dakota and went into Minnesota. Mosquito country. These little bloodsuckers (national bird of MN) seem to have a great taste for foreign blood. Anything exotic tastes better, I gues. My legs testify for this. Yesterday we had rain and thunderstorms. It made the morning part of the day's ride (91 miles) interesting to say the least. The aftermath is actually pretty pleasant. The heat is gone. And finally I have started to lose weight, or it is beginning to show. Yeah! Me, a lean mean biking machine.
Get yourself an insect repellant with DEET, like "Off". It's the only thing that really helps. You're heading into West Nile Virus territory so it's prudent to avoid as many bites as possible.
or smother yourself in catnip.
http://www.mosquitosolutions.com/catnip.html 8 fl. oz. Spray Bottle This natural mosquito insect repellent contains Catnip Oil! A full 8 ounces of protection from mosquitoes and other biting insects. Our formula is based on actual research at Iowa State University, in which Catnip Oil was found to be 10 times more effective than DEET at repelling mosquitos All natural herbal based recipe: The Catnip based insect repellent combines: 100% pure Catnip Oil (nepetalactone) 100% pure Pennyroyal Oil (known to repel biting insects) 100% pure Rosemary Oil (to repel more insects) 100 % pure Vegetable Glycerin, used to keep the repellent on the skin for up to 8 hours. This 100% natural formula provides defense without the potential dangers associated with the chemical DEET. Our insect repellent offers up to 8 hours of protection against mosquitoes and other biting insects such as biting flies, no-see-ums, midges, black flies and more. Be sure to read what others are saying about the Catnip Oil Insect Repellent: Deb Jackson's Story How she developped our Catnip Oil Insect Repellent. Satisfied Customers Happy users tell us what they think of Catnip Oil insect repellent. Iowa State University Research Document Read the actual report by scientists at Iowa State University showing that Catnip Oil is 10 times more powerful than DEET at repelling mosquitoes. Directions: Spray on exposed skin (body, neck, arms, legs, etc.). Spray on hand and rub on face. Apply to non-exposed areas if clothing is in contact with skin surface (as mosquitoes will bite through clothing such as socks, jeans and t-shirts).
How is "actual research" different from "research"? (Or an "actual report" from a "report"?) I also like the insidious "chemical DEET", as though nepetalactone and the active ingredients of pennyroil and rosemary oils are not also chemicals. And those oils from pennyroil and rosemary contain many other chemicals, which they don't tell you about. This is not to say that catnip oil isn't a better repellent than DEET, although it it *much* harder to synthesize and therefore would be expected to be more expensive. And is it really better to be crawling with cats than with mosquitos? Anyway, it is the choice between putting N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide or 5,6,7,7a-Tetrahydro-4,7-dimethyl-cyclopenta[c]pyran-1-(4aH)-one on your skin. Is this the next Avon Skin-so-Soft fad?
"not only will mosquitos hate you, but your cats will *love* you !!" :-)
My cats already are a nuisance, wanting to be on my desk or lap. Right now they seem to take turns with only one or two bugging me at a time. With that stuff I would have to be fighting all six at once. Fortunately mosquitos don't seem to like me anyway.
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DEET is an harmful carcinogen. 37: what the fuck's wrong with you?
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From http://212.187.155.84/wnv/List_WPMod_Cont/westnile/Chemicals/deet.htm
# Carcinogenic effects: [of DEET]
* No development of cancer in rats and mice (Mus domesticus - Laboratory
mouse) fed high daily doses over their lifetime. (W188.Mar02.WNV18)
* No direct relationship has been established between the use of DEET and
carcinogenicity in humans.
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DEET makes me nauseous.
Some individuals may be sensitive, but overall DEET is quite innoxious.
Here is the toxicity information from the above website:
# Relatively few confirmed incidents of human (Homo sapiens - Human)
toxicity have been reported. (W188.Mar02.WNV18)
* No sign of skin irritation in initial repeat-insult patch tests
conducted over 21 consecutive days and involving 100% technical grade DEET
or 50% DEET in ethanol.(J136.128.w1)
* A few cases of contact urticaria and irritant contact dermatitis
have been reported (14 cases, mainly in soldiers); there appears to be a
particular sensitivity of the antecubital fossa to develop bullous
irritant contact dermatitis if DEET products are left on this area
overnight. (J136.128.w1)
* One case of bradycardia and hypotension has been documented in the
medical literature. (J136.128.w1)
* 14 cases of encephalopathy reported, 13 of these in children less
than eight years old, with three fatal cases (including one in a child
with an ornithine carbamyl transferase deficiency which may have
predisposed the individual to DEET-induced toxicity); the other children
recovered without sequelae. Many of those affected had a history of "long
term, excessive or inappropriate use of DEET repellents. "(J136.128.w1)
.....
Note the last sentence. I prefer 100% DEET and have no effects from it
when lightly placed on my skin (avoiding area around eyes). However I
prefer to wear a "bug jacket", which is an open mesh jacket that is first
soaked in 100% DEET. One gets very little on one's skin and then only in
tiny patches where the jacket directly contacts the skin. There is no
need to even apply it to the face - the jacket has a hood and that is
enough to keep mosquitos at bay.
DEET is very effective. Generally, I dont apply it to my skin but choose to put it on my clothes instead. I think DEET melts certain types of synthetic fabrics but I havent had any problems. I hate the way it smells though so I only use it when the bugs are really bad.
I've heard that over 50% there are no additional benefits to higher concentrations of DEET. The concentration mainly seems to affect how long the repellent lasts, not how effective it is.
Well, that's important. The longer it lasts, the less often you have to apply it, and very possibly it is cheaper per mosquito-hour. Why pay for a diluent?
Today, Tuesday, I'll end up in Frankenmuth, Michigan, after a 88 mile ride from Farwell. I'll stay at the Frankenmuth Middle School E.F. Rittmueller, 965 E. Gennesee You can expect me to arrive between 1 and 2 p.m.
Check out the chicken dinners at Zhender's!
Pity I had to miss this; retrieving car from repair shop ate my free time for the day.
I too would like to have gone, but database madness and a looming personal deadline overruled.
gelinas, lhbunkie and I drove up and chatted with clees for a while, and scott showed up just before we left. Thanks Joe, for taking the initiative - and thanks clees - it was good to finally meet you in person!
Thanks to those who drove all the way to frankemuth to honor me with such a great visit, even though it was short. it was excellent and great. Thanks for dinner, Scott! You're great.
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aruba's (digital) camera was used to take pictures. mooncat was not in Frankenmuth when I was, but she did show up a bit late to the BoD meeting.
http://www.scotthelmke.com/clees.jpg I had a better shot, but it didn't come out so well.
(I'm mildly amused by the idea of going to Frankenmuth to visit a Dutchman visiting America...though going to Holland (MI) would have been even better.)
I put a picture of aruba, scott, clees, gelinas, and lhbunkie at /--------------------------------------------------\ | http://www-personal.umich.edu/~mconger/clees.jpg | \--------------------------------------------------/
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Cool tee, Mark. ;-)
Thanks for the pics. I'll download them as soon I get back in the netherlands.
Heh. Mary brought me that shirt from Aruba.
That photo is great! Everyone has almost the same expression
I hadn't noticed that.
Well, after a short trip through Canada, we have landed in new York. Albion, to be precise. A rundown little city with a lot of lost glory. Niagara Falls were awesome! We had a whole day of rain, there. More wetness.
Yeah, it's been pretty wet in the eastern US lately. Philly was hot & muggy, with rain every day.
Hello all. I think it would be appropriate to tell you I made it safely back to the Netherlands. Time to recuperate from my foolish dive on a plastic sheet in the rain. I bruised five ribs and had to bike for four more days until the final stage. I made it, still. Tiry dipping in the Atlantic!
Congratulations! Take a bow.
That was really quite an accomplishment. What will you do to top it?
Too bad the trip's over. I enjoyed reading your experiences.
welcome back clees! /
Way to go on the continent crossing, Rick. Did you achieve the other goals you had for the trip?
heh heh, there you got me. No future american wife for me, ha ha ha. No green card. Seems I have been barking up the wrong tree all the time, given what some fellow female cyclist said to me in our final fiteen minutes together. Mayhap a Hawaii address to stay though, which isn't bad at all.
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I guess you don't know what cycling does to a man's libido... particularly when it takes place on a daily basis for nine weeks? Besides, with so many people at each other's lips, I guess no. That was not my aim. Cycling coast to coast was. 4,200 miles, and I did it.
Impressive enough, I'd say.
Dang. That is awesome!
some grexers actually do get laid.
some do, yes, apparantly, haha
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you sit on your "boys" for a few hours and tell us how it feels. I can say from a woman's perspective that it isn't pleasant to be on a bike for more than 6 hours... from my century bike race I did once, and claim I will never do again.
endorphenes come a long way (vague and blissful smile)
re 79: a bad saddle or improper saddle adjustment can cause problems (temporary in all but extreme cases..) but I would expect the general increase in fitness to counterbalance that in most cases..
One should ride with the bicycle seat *on*.
This is where a recumbent is very nice - big lawn-chair seat. On the down side, I tend to get numb feet.
Stick them in warm water with dissolved epsom salts
Did I tell you about the two toes that have been numb for more than five weeks, now? Or the painful knot between my shoulderblades? Or the other knot? The one in my right calf? There is no gain without pain. That's why I decided to be foolish and take a dive on a wet sheet of plastic in the rain where others took a slide. I bruished more than one rib.
Way to go, Rick, like everyone else, I'm amazed at your accomplishment.
In bruising ribs? That'll be the day!
You have several choices: