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Yesterday, Janice and I returned from two weeks of traveling. We visited Washington, Baltimore, New York and Cincinnati, among other places. For the first part of the trip, we stayed with a friend of Janice's in Columbia, Maryland (between Washington and Baltimore), a fully planned community started in the early 1960's by James Rouse and nearly finished. It has a lot in common with "The Village" which starred in the old TV series "The Prisoner". All signs are lettered in mixed-case Helvetica; all services are unobtrusive; the houses are carefully designed to not look exactly alike; the landscaping is impeccable; almost every non-major street is a curving cul-de-sac; every street name is cutesy. Janice's friend says that Columbia "is not user-friendly"; since every corner looks like every other corner, it's extremely difficult to find your way in and out of the maze. We went to the Holocaust museum in Washington. I'd heard that it was difficult to get in there because of the crowds, with long waits in line, etc., but Janice had obtained free tickets for a specific time, and it was no problem. I won't try to describe the museum. We also went to the Vietnam Veterans memorial, which Janice hadn't seen before, and the Albert Einstein memorial nearby (the most under- appreciated delight among Washington's tourist sites). We also went to the National Museum of Women in the Arts, of which Janice's friend is a member. The next day we went to Baltimore, and visited the B&O Railroad Museum, which includes the oldest train station in the U.S., a roundhouse with many period locomotives, etc. Also in Baltimore, we went to the Babe Ruth Birthplace, which is right near the Orioles' new Camden Yards stadium. I was frankly appalled at the poor preservation standards of the Birthplace: in the room where Babe Ruth was supposedly born, all the original woodwork had apparently been removed and replaced with totally inappropriate fancy new stuff. Maybe the originals were already gone before the museum started, but given that this is just one of hundreds of nearly identical row houses, you'd think they'd have been able to figure out what the old woodwork probably looked like. The next day was back to Washington again. Janice went to the National Gallery of Art, while I spent time at the Library of Congress. We also had seafood dinner with conservative writer Martin Morse Wooster. Then we traveled up to New York, where we stayed with some friends of mine in Yonkers, just north of the city. We immediately changed our clothes and took the subway down to the Gershwin Theater to see "Showboat". Among other things we did in New York: we went to the New York City Subway Museum; we visited my great-aunt Pearl for the first time in fifteen years; we visited the Jewish Museum; Janice attended sessions of the American Psychological Association convention; I did research at the New York Public Library. We almost always took the subway. Those of you who last used the NYC subway around 1980 have a very outdated notion of what that is like. In the years since then, the subways have been dramatically improved. Grafitti has been practically banished. The odor problems are gone. Crime is way down. All of the cars are air-conditioned: they're practically frigid. The stations are clean and well cared for. A lot of the lovely old tilework has been cleaned and repaired; other stations have been completely redone. I remember when subway maps were scarce and hard to find. Every station was out of them: finding one with maps in stock was like finding the Holy Grail. No longer: every station now has plenty of maps to hand out. Of course, that may have something to do with the Manhattan Bridge repair situation: repairs on the Manhattan Bridge have necessitated the part-time shutdown or relocation of the B,D,F,Q trains, and the current maps are two-sided. Each side has a complete map of all the subway/el routes in the city, but one side is labeled "Weekday Midday & Weekend Service: Manhattan Bridge Closed", and the other side says "Rush Hour, Weekday Evening & Late Night Service: Manhattan Bridge Open". Driving around in Yonkers, I noticed an old hexagonal house on Yonkers Avenue, undocumented in any of my sources; I returned later to photograph it. From New York, we headed west and southwest to Reading, Pennsylvania, and then to Covington KY (across the Ohio River from Cincinnati). We stayed with Janice's parents, and visited Janice's grandmother, 95 years old and ailing in a nursing home. A 1958 sourcebook I had with me indicated that there was a hexagonal house in Lebanon, Ohio. I called the Lebanon city clerk and verified that it was still standing, now in use as a bed & breakfast. We drove out to Lebanon, just a bit north of Cincinnati; the house turned out to be of 1850's vintage and quite large. I took a bunch of photographs, and we had lunch at the Golden Lamb Inn, the oldest inn in Ohio. It was started in 1803 in a log cabin; the present brick building dates from 1815. Ten presidents (mostly Ohio Republicans like Garfield, McKinley, Harding) have stayed there, plus Charles Dickens and many other colorful people. We also saw the Isaac Wise Temple in Cincinnati, a delightful sort-of Moorish/Gothic synagogue built in 1866. It's directly across from the neo-classical St. Peter In Chains Cathedral, and kitty-corner from the Cincinnati city hall, a great Richardson Romanesque style building from around 1890. We got back to Ann Arbor yesterday.
60 responses total.
Sounds like a blast....I wish i could have gone on vacaction this summer ....:(
The last time I used the NYC subway was over 25 years ago. At that time, I made a resolution never again to ride it. Of course you need to know I travelled to and from school every day for four years on the subway and experienced every unpleasant experience it had to offer. It was not air conditioned and my summer rides were a nightmare. Sounds like it has vastly improved, but I am still not tempted to indulge. My negative memories are still too intense.
I've never been on the N.Y. subway, but I aim to go there one day! It sounds like you had a great time, and I'm glad you all made it back safely.
I've been to the Golden Lamb Inn--it's a wonderful place. I think the last time I rode the NYC subway *was* 1980. I'm glad to hear they have improved. The last one I rode on had the lights go out, but that was OK, 'cause I was able to get a better look at the tunnels. I remember seeing a tunnel that went off where we were at a perpendicular angle. So it wasn't used. I couldn't see more than 3 feet into it, but thought I saw old track. I've always wished I could have seen farther into it.
I have a token, but have never ridden. Hope to remedy that one soon.
Back in 1980, unlighted cars were common. In all my subway riding on this trip, I didn't see even one. It occurs to me that maybe the Subway Museum should have showed a car that was covered with grafitti, to show how things were back then. They were slathered with it, inside and out.
I should also mention that I was in New York during the summer of 1980, and then almost immediately was in Chicago. After riding the New York subways, I was *astonished* at how clean Chicago's subways were. The current controversy in NYC is whether to raise the subway fare from $1.25 to $1.50.
Marlene told me that the station that she was in stunk to holy heaven, and was hotter than blazes. Trains were nice, though. I don't know whic station it was but I can ask. .,
She would have been in at least two stations... ;-> \
Washington DC has really nice subways. THe stations are very clean. The rides are very scenic. (Not to mention the fact that the government probably subsidizes them)
Essentially every transit system is subsidized in terms of its budget: it's almost impossible to cover all the costs from the fares collected. On the other hand, automobile travel is also subsidized in an economic sense, in that the externalities of driving are not borne directly by the people deciding to drive. More people driving means more congestion, more wear on the roads, more air pollution, etc. Additionally, from an economic standpoint, it is always better to have a person work and be productive than to have the same person idle and live on welfare. Given the high costs of owning/operating an automobile, the availability of alternate transportation makes it possible for a lot of people to be employed who couldn't manage it otherwise. Hence, every person who takes the bus or subway instead of driving or sitting home collecting welfare checks is a benefit to the community. The comparatively small subsidy for a transit system is a cheap price to pay for this.
The world's worst subways are in Philadelphia...the trains are eight hundred million years old, rats run up and down the tracks, and they have these REALLY rickecty street cars that run on one of the lines. And some of Philly's subway stations have these old walking tunnels that you go through to transfer from one line to another and I'm convinced some people have gotten lost in them and never made it out! Philly's a nice place but if you visit, take the bus.
Unless I've forgotten, I haven't seen anything about London subways, aka The Tube. They are easy to navigate, and are fairly clean until you get to the platform... ick. Lots of talented performers, but also lots of homeless people in the corners. Only saw one or two rats. Problem is, the escalators almost never work, and it's hell to go up such a steep flight of stairs.... and escalator stairs are steep in themselves, never mind the incline. And just like NY, you can't unserstand a damn word over the PA system.
Atlanta's subway system is nice. The MARTA system there is the "official subway of the 1996 Olympic Games", although I havent the foggiest idea why
Stop being rodentist. Rats are just mice who went bad ;)
We also saw the Baltimore subway on this trip. It's sort of like the Washington DC subway, but not quite so nicely set up.
I spent quite a bit of time on the Budapest subway this fall, and it was a really nice system. It was quite clean, rather cheap (then again, so is just about everything in Hungary), ran frequently, and was part of a public transportation network that made it possible to get just about anywhere I wanted to go pretty cheaply. In addition the the subway, Budapest also has rather extensive bus and tram systems. Looking at a transit map of Budapest, it looks almost like the road maps do in a lot of places.
Ahhhhh, travel - wonderful stuff.
Sounds like a great trip; thanks for sharing, Larry!
For prosperity, this is now item 43 in the travel conf.!
Don't you mean "posterity", Denise?
We are all enriched when items like this one are posted for future readers.
Bruin, my brain wasn't in full function, this morning! Posterity sounds more like what I meant!
ummmm, i'd rather consider that "prosperity" is more the focus of travel.
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I dunno, popcorn, your tales do not make me want to get back on the subway the next time I go back to NY. I think I'll stick to my vow never again to set foot or body on a NY subway.
Only thing I dont like about NY subways is the panhandling...nothing worse than being on an uptown train with a guy with no legs standing in front of you sobbing. I think they've cracked down a bit the last couple of years though.
Call me a bleeding heart liberal, but I think it might be worse to be the guy with no legs standing in front of a lot of people sobbing.
I'm sure there are many legitimate cases of need, however there are also many cases where the initial appearance is not the true situation. I feel great empathy for people who are homeless, without hope, and on the streets. I am not convinced that the panhandlers I have met fit those criteria. And some certainly make substantial money. Life is so simple. #$@%^.
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I have a policy not to give money when solicited in a controlled situation. If the guy with no legs comes up to me on the sidewalk, that is one thing, and I give my fair share to the homeless, but if I am solicited on the subway or when I am in McD's trying to eat my Big Mac I regard it as an intrusion on my privacy. The sidewalks and streets are free and thats fine but when I have paid my money to be someplace and enjoy myself, I dont think panhandling is appropriate.
I think if I were on a park bench eating a sandwich, and a person asked me for half, I'd see no problem with it. My city has a fierce panhandling problem, especially downtown. But even the homeless advocacy groups advise not giving to panhandlers, because there are Help Wanted signs all over the place, and anyone who wants to work can work.
In general I agree with you. However, to say that all the homeless who want work can find jobs is a bit of an oversimplification. Some of them have just fallen on hard times, but others are likely unemployed and homeless due to severe mental illnesses, and would have a lot of trouble doing just about any kind of job. I don't know about the homeless where you are, but in Michigan, where John Engler likes cutting money from things like mental hospitals and schools so that he can build more prisons to put the people who should have been helped by the things he cut in, that seems to be a pretty large segment of the homeless population.
And Engler is working on making it bigger.
Sorry to bust your bubbles, bubs, but wasn't it the LIBERALS, with the backing of the ACLU, that were responsible for "deinstitutionalization" of the mentally ill? And today we are reaping the rewards of their enlightened social policy!!!
In NYC, that's precisely how it happened. The sudden proliferation of "bag ladies," as they were then called, and various other street people, such as the elderly man who used to tape a photograph of himself on the side of Grand Central Station and then kneel down and pray to it, was the result of deinstitutionalization. They weren't forced out of the hospitals they'd been in. In fact, they'd originally been held their by force. The ACLU and others argued, rightly in my opinion, that the state had no right to hold these people against their wills. Nobody made any plans for alternate care for them, however, and so they took to the streets. Does anyone know what percentage of street people are in this category, as opposed to the sane-but-homeless ones?
There is another factor, probably the dominant one, in the "deinstitutionalization" of the mentally ill. This was the discovery of a whole suite of drugs that alleviated the overt symptoms - from lithium for depression, to valium for "manias" (I con't recall the clinical details). These made the patients so close to normal, as seen in the institutional setting, that there appeared to be no medical, much less legal reason for holding them. Of course, as in *any* new technology, its not always simple. For one thing, by releasing the patients, the oversight of the drug treatment was lost in many instances. Also, drugs might alleviate the overt symptom, but might not touch socialization and motivation, etc. The whole scenario had nothing to do with liberals vs conservatives. Obviously, releasing patients because their symptoms were apparently alleviated is a liberal thing to do, while the conservatives *did not object* as it would appear just vindictive to insist that the patients be held when there was no apparent reason to do so. I would hope people of political perspective would learn something from this and not try to make it another part of the "blame game".
Yeah. Let's hear it for the good old ACLU. Helping mentally ill people to stick up for their rights to leave in the streets like dogs and suing the city of new York when it tries to get them into someplace safe & warm.
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- Backtalk version 1.3.30 - Copyright 1996-2006, Jan Wolter and Steve Weiss