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With alternate energy as everything else, there are some schemes which work with the equipment we have available, some schemes which require equipment we don't have yet, and some schemes which won't work at all. Appreciating the difference is key to making best use of what we've got. Taking some quotes from Fall Agora item 8: # If Detroit Edison can be persuaded to pay people with panels the # same on-peak summer rates that they pay other suppliers, solar # energy in Michigan may be less cost-prohibitive. Right now it # runs about 25 cents/kWh because you can only sell it for one third # what you pay for it, instead of the three times what you pay during # mid-day in the summer, when you generate the most power and # when people who don't know any better run air conditioners. There are two misconceptions in this paragraph. The first and smallest is that solar panels produce the most power in the summer. This is actually false; silicon PV panels lose capacity with increasing temperature, and actually put out the most power on sunny winter days. The reflection from snow on the ground can put more sunlight on a solar panel than it gets during the summer, adding a double-whammy. The bigger misconception appears to be that "people who don't know better" run air conditioners on hot days. People don't buy air conditioners for chilly days! This is a wealthy country, and people are not going to accept being hot and sweaty in homes and businesses just to be ecologically correct. They are going to buy comfort. The goal of "green engineering" should be to provide it with the minimum of environmental impact and a reasonable cost. # I'd like the new school building (assuming the bond is approved) to # include solar panels for co-generation. If some of the heating can # also be used to generate electricity, I'd like it to use that, too. There's an error of nomenclature hiding a misunderstanding, and a broader question of purpose left hanging here. Co-generation is applied to operations which use fuel (such as making steam) where the process is changed to generate electricity or other useful work as a byproduct. For instance, instead of boiling water at atmospheric pressure for steam heat, a co-generation system will boil water at high pressure and run it through a turbine to co-generate electricity; the turbine's low-pressure exhaust steam can be used for space heat. The net efficiency of co-generation can be very high. The broader question of purpose involves the use of solar panels (I assume that photovoltaic panels were meant here). PV is some of the most expensive conversion hardware on the market, and is really not cost-effective on the grid. It would be much more efficient to design the buildings for daylighting and eliminate the need for electricity in the first place. Eliminating electric lights also reduces the need for air conditioning and the electricity it demands, and daylighting is just plain *nicer*. # there was a way to capture the heat behind the photovoltaic panels # at Leslie in the setup where they were not flat against the roof. In general, this is not a good idea. Silicon PV panels work best when they are as cool as possible, and solar heating works best when things are insulated (unglazed systems like SolarWall notwithstanding). You can't design an efficient system to serve conflicting purposes, and reducing the cost-efficiency of the most expensive components you can buy is just silly. Unless there is some shortage of area for grabbing sunlight, it makes sense to devote different parts for each purpose. # In Belgrade many of the apartment buildings were centrally heated with # steam from somewhere, which I suspect may have been generated at the # same time as electricity. Is that being done in this country at all? # Could the U of M generate its own electricity from natural gas and # use the waste heat? Not only could the U of M do this, the U of M has been doing this since before there was a natural gas line to its heating plant on Forest/Huron. Before that there was a rail spur coming up from the river, which carried coal to stoke the flames beneath the University's steam boilers. The turbines produce much of the juice to run campus, and the spent steam heats central campus, the dorms and IIRC the hospital as well. # There is a house in Dexter area which is selling power to the grid when it # generates too much, and therefore does not need to bother with batteries. This is an even more fundamental error of thought. You don't need to bother with batteries when you have an excess of power, you need them when you have a deficit. Selling and buying are different things. Batteryless, grid-tied PV systems are still a hobby and a social statement, not yet a way to save money for most uses and users. That will come someday (there is nothing inherently expensive about photovoltaic panels), but it isn't here yet. In general, the "greenest" as well as cheapest way to go is to avoid the need to use energy to achieve your purposes in the first place. Designing buildings with top-notch insulation, daylighting, thermal mass and easy ventilation is going to beat any effort to fix the lack of those things after the fact with solar-this or wind-that. The people who actually live on alternate energy learned this long ago. There is a whole set of appliance makers like SunFrost, whose price premium for e.g. a refrigerator which uses 1/3 the juice of an Amana is a lot less than the cost of 3 times as many solar panels and batteries. Passive-solar design elements make a lot of sense for most buildings. They don't get used as often as they should because design is usually done by architects, while total cost of ownership is usually figured by engineers hired to make the architect's idea work. If the clients got more and better information at the beginning, our buildings would probably be cheaper to run as well as better for us.
157 responses total.
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Nah, use them as motors. Self-unrolling toilet paper. It'd be the ultimate in luxury! There's still a lot of "low hanging fruit" to be grabbed in energy efficiency. For example, most commercial buildings I've worked in have been large single-story affairs (lots of surface area) with no roof insulation other than what's provided by the acoustic ceiling tiles. Heating and air conditioning have generally been poorly regulated and poorly distributed; at one bank I worked at, people at one end of the building would be too hot in the summer, while people at the other end would be so over-A/C'd they were hiding space heaters under their desks. No one could fix this, not even the local heating and cooling company. It seems like the technology of climate-controlling a building should have improved beyond that point by now.
Thanks, Russ. I appreciate the correction of the nomenclature. To the specific example, I want the building in question to be designed along the lines you suggest. However, there are some things in a school building that do require electricity. I'd like that electricity generated on-site, with any excess sold. I'm not wedded to any particular generation technology: whatever works at an affordable price.
None of this holds true for, say, solar-thermal production, though.
Panels are great if you're recharing small electrical devices.
VW got sick of their cars arriving at dealerships with dead batteries, and started shipping every new car with a small solar panel stuck in the windshield, recently.
Ob Solar: I am informed that the vast majority of the 1300 W/m2 that hits the Earth bounces off. I don't remember the exact figure but it was greater than 99%. This means that my house, for example, my roof (about 80 square meters) could get less than a kilowatt under the best of circumstances, and will probably get a lot less - maybe as little as 200 watts. This is about 700 BTU/hr or so. It would be hard pressed to keep up with the water heater, which is a rather small part of the heating load. Forget about any real work, like transportation. I do half as well or better pedaling.
You are informed incorrectly. "The Earth's average albedo, reflectance from both the atmosphere and the surface, is about 30 %." (http://www.geog.ouc.bc.ca/physgeog/contents/7f.html)
Also, it locally depends upon the surface: a black surface absorbs almost all of the insolation, although it also radiates (not reflects) some depending upon its temperature. Solar heaters are made to absorb nearly all the insolation.
(Science 81 <-> Fall Agora 59.)
I got a chance to look at Slashdot and they mentioned the results of the Solar Decathlon competition (sponsored by the Department of Energy). See http://www.eren.doe.gov/solar_decathlon. Some of the techniques used by the winners could be useful for many buildings; for instance, the slat-blinds used on one can be used to either exclude sunlight or bounce it off the ceiling according to need, cutting the need for heat, air conditioning and electric lighting. Another is the vacuum insulated solar collectors which heat the water on another. If a new Ann Arbor school building is going to incorporate elements for efficiency, blinds and water heating make a lot more sense than photovoltaic panels. Co-generation from the heating plant is another good one; perhaps an off-the-shelf microturbine could serve. The latest issue of Solar Today has a study of a home-improvement outlet which incorporated a number of conservation and alternate-energy techniques. I'll post details when I get time to scare the magazine up again.
I've heard some interesting stuff about the "living roof" on the new Ford complex. It's expected to save on A/C costs and reduce run-off from the roof.
As promised....
The September/October 2002 issue of _Solar Today_ has an article on
a retail center in Silverthorne, Colorado. There is a Sears store,
a floor covering/furniture store, a home improvement store and a
drive-in warehouse in the complex. They use a variety of different
techniques for reducing energy demand (see the article). These include:
- High-performance building envelopes.
- Radiant-floor heating.
- Transpired solar collector (unglazed collector for heating
warehouse ventilation air).
- Demand-controlled ventilation and natural cooling.
- Solar electricity.
- Energy-management system.
Payback times vary widely by technique. On page 62, some payback times
are given (but no supporting figures); the warehouse skylight system pays
for itself in 2-3 years, the compact-fluorescent lighting system in 4-5
years, and the photovoltaic system in ~30 years. NREL monitoring shows a
41% energy savings and 58% cost savings; the cost savings are larger due
to the reduced use of expensive electricity and the substitution of natural
gas for space heat to compensate for the reduced thermal output.
Total cost reduction is about $0.61/ft^2/year. I suspect that this would
have been larger if the more cost-effective techniques (daylighting,
insulation) had been used more heavily and fancy PV had been omitted.
One building also has an electric (!) snow-melting system for the roof.
This would probably have been better replaced by use of pumped groundwater
to melt snow, a la the Rocky Mountain Institute's headquarters.
Huh. I should ask my dad (blh here on Grex, but rarely visits Agora) about that. He lives in Silverthorne most of the year nowadays.
The cost benefits for efficient systems need to be increased, to make them a better option for all kinds of buildings. If Walmart suddenly decides to go efficient, the effect would be huge--I'd like to see it become a strong interest of theirs. Too bad that'll never fly in Congress.
Perhaps Walmart operates on a very short-term view, which wouldn't suprise me much. It used to said that McDonald's was really all about real estate in the long term, that every McDonald's was located on property which would eventually be extremely valuable. I'm finding that a questionable assertion these days. I'd love to build a house with more inherently-efficient features, but it'l be a while before I can afford something like that.
Amorphous silicon panels are said to work just as well at high as at low temperatures. In Michigan the sun does not shine a whole lot in the winter but shines more than you want it to in the summer, and it shines stronger in the summer (the Northern Hemisphere is tilted towards the sun in summer, away in winter). Detroit Edison sends out graphs of its solar generating results and the summer months are much better than the winter months. If you were to adjust the angle to maximize summer collection rather than maximize winter collection, so as to get the maximum generated power over the whole year, and could sell it for at least what you paid for it (at a time when there is more demand), solar power would probably still not pay for itself but would come a lot closer. And you would not need batteries as the power company would buy your summer excess and sell you what you needed in winter when their other customers did not want as much. We are building a house that does not need air conditioning, with lots of insulation, daylighting, nighttime ventilation, thermal mass, etc. It will use most electricity during winter off-peak hours (7 pm to 10 am) for heat and light. Businesses may not need light in the evenings but houses do. Batteries are about 15% of the cost of the Leslie Science Center solar power system, and they need replacing more often than the other components and take up space and need maintenance. You would need an invertor large enough to handle summer loads in order to convert the DC to AC to put it back on thegrid. Other states are paying prices for solar power closer to what they pay for other on-peak power. I can post solar gain through a vertical surface for various months, at our location (assuming the sun in shining, which is rare in November), also the Detroit Edison results if I kept them. We donate $8/month to get a small fraction of our power from their installation west of town. They are thinking about wind power now- wind is stronger when sun is weaker, on average, in MI. By people not knowing better using air conditioning, I meant that they live in poorly insulated houses, don't have sense to ventilate at night and close up in the daytime, run air conditioning with the windows open when it is hot out, and with the windows shut when it is 60 out and they are cooking, etc. Jim's sister never takes off her storm windows and keeps the house 68 all year long. In summer the basement is about 50 or less (she also air conditions that). The Ann Arbor library is the same temperature all year long, or maybe a bit warmer in winter. This is not comfortable for people who dress for the seasons.
Jim is retrofitting his house, adding insulation, a third layer of glass, weatherstripping, thinking about a sunporch. He replaced the missing kitchen door and in the summer leaves it shut all day and leaves the kitchen window open and runs a fan while cooking. The rest of his downstairs is usually about 75. He ventilates at night, closes reflective shades in the daytime on the sunny side of the house. 1939 house built without insulation, 1.5 stories (makes it harder to insulate, had to do the kneewalls and attic floor, and seal carefully). He insulated between floors. Upstairs gets warm. He is planning on a white metal roof next. There are various ways to add wall insulation (possibly even to hollow metal walls like Scott has).
The disadvantage I can see for the "living roof" is that the delay of runoff means that the weight of precipitation has to be carried by the structure until it does run off; this could mean a substantially stronger (and more expensive) structure is required. OTOH, if the roof can be made into another usable space it could pay off for a school building - being able to hold lunches, lectures and science/nature classes on the roof would add to function space during at least part of the year without needing either additional land or enclosed volume.
Re #18: That's probably true. In Michigan flat roofs have to be designed to carry a pretty substantial winter snow load, though, and that means some of that carrying capacity would have to be designed in anyway.
FWIW, my very poorly insulated house hardly ever needs a/c (I have a window unit that I use on only the hottest, most humid days.) My secret? Trees.
I bet you also open the windows once in a while, which many people have forgotten how to do. New houses are designed with no bedroom cross ventilation.
Yes, I open the windows when I get home from work (around 6p) and leave them open all night until I leave for work in the morning (around 8a). I have found that with the windows closed, the house stays pretty cool until about 1p-2p. I have fans that I run to help bring air in during the night and that helps a lot. Another way I avoid having to use A/C is by doing things outside of my house on really hot days. It doesnt hurt that some of my favorite things to do are swimming, sailing and kayaking, all of which are very nice things to do on really hot days. But, sometimes I cheat too. Sometimes on *really* hot afternoons, I go to the movies because they have air conditioned theaters.
The architects for the new AA branch library proposed that the library have a living roof. (They called it something else, but I forget the exact term). Part of the idea is to reduce runoff going into streams and then the Huron.
On hot days you can go to a public library and shiver. For free. Slynne seems to be doing it all right - fans also help keep you cool in the daytime when the windows are shut, if you point them at you. Cooking outdoors (plug in an electric hotplate) also helps, or cook only after opening up at night or before closing up in the morning. We have friends who complain that they are hot and turn the air conditioning temperature down while wearing long pants and undershirts. We are wearing shorts and have to bring warm clothing when visiting them. Businesses often require employees to wear warm clothing in summer (nylons, pants) thereby wasting lots of energy. My apartment is tolerable up to 83 until the sun hits the west wall and it radiates. Insulation would help, as would removing the brick fireplace.
Actually I have yet to see a hot plate that doesn't say "Do not use outdoors" somewhere on it or in the manual. Of course since most hotplates pull more current than any electric stove I owned and cost more to run than the gas stove I currently use, I only use one when I need more than 4 burners. I just open the window and door near the stove and use the exhaust fan over it when cooking in hot weather. I also only cook simple things that can be cooked quickly, microwaved or not needing cooking at all if it is too hot for me to tolerate being in the kitchen.
If it's really hot out. I just make a peanut butter and jelly sandwich and skip the cooking altogether.
Re 25: Since almost 100% of electricity is converted to heat in a resistive heater, I can't see how a hotplate would use more power than a regular stove. More current, sure. But that's because most electric stoves run at 240 volts while most hotplates run at 120 volts, and with power = volts * amps it would be double the current for the same amount of heat output.
Re #14: If you want to do that, promote a carbon tax and reduction or elimination of other taxes. That will directly promote efficiency. Re #15: You can't replace e.g. incandescent fixtures with fluorescent as they wear out or you remodel? How about a condensing furnace? Awnings for the windows which get lots of heat during the air-conditioning season? Magnetic storm windows (you've got it *easy* in some ways)?
Well, little things like compact flourescents, yes. Storm windows already done, although not magnetic (hell, *you* try holding up a 6x4 foot pane of glass with magnets!).
Hotplates don't care if they are used indoors or out, just don't leave them outdoors without a roof over them. You can always unplug the hotplate and bring it inside when you are not using it. Cooking with the kitchen window open is fine if you also have a closed kitchen door, or don't mind your place being outdoor temperature. We are building a summer kitchen - porch with a stove on it, enclosed with louvered screened windows. You might, Scott, be able to make plexiglass storm windows using refrigerator magnetic weatherstripping.
Re #23: Perhaps the speed of the runoff can be reduced, but unless the roof is going to be designed to retain the heaviest rains (the ones which would spill over) for a substantial length of time, I doubt that the characteristics of the runoff would be changed very much at the margins. Small rains would just dampen the roof without running off, of course, but they are not the big problem; once the roof saturates, the runoff will follow the rate of precipitation. I'd suspect that cisterns or the modern equivalent of rain barrels would have greater potential for reducing runoff. It might even be possible to retrofit such to existing buildings, though I don't know where you'd put the cisterns in the tighter spaces downtown such as around Borders. City Hall would be a piece of cake with its expansive sidewalks and big parking lot out front.
We have "discovered" the Foreman Grill. Although it is electric, I think it must be one of the most energy efficient cooking devices, since the hot surfaces are in diract contact with the food, and the cooking time is very short. It also probably consumes less energy in being cleaned (but more time than a dishwasher).
Re 41: I dunno. A lawn can absorb an amazing amount of water. Plants grab water during wet periods and hold onto it for dry periods. Lotta plants in a lawn. Probably takes a pretty large cistern to match a roof full of grass, and with the cistern you have to *do* something with the stored grass.
One of the interesting things about native species is that the roots go really deep, which would hard to do on a roof. I suspect most/all of the designs for water handling use a temporary pond near the building to soak up rainstorms.
Plus with the roof full of grass, transpiration helps cool the roof (and, by extension, the building) on dry, sunny days. (Actually, they aren't using grass. They're using a drought-resistant ground cover. Actual grass wouldn't be very practical for this.)
Plus, living roofs are more pretty.
Yes, but the aesthetics for people who are flying over in airplanes are rarely considered in building design. ;) Simply replacing a black roof membrane with a white one makes a large difference in air conditioning load. If everyone did it, it would make a noticable difference in the outdoor temperature in a lot of urban areas, as well.
Haha. I have seen some living roof designs that are pretty for the earth bound as well. One particular example involved making the roof blend in with the surrounding country side that consisted of rolling hills. They just made the roof line look like one of the hills. From certain angles, you could barely even see that a house was there. From the front, you could tell there was a structure but it still blended VERY well with the land around it.
Right here in my neighborhood is one of those "earth houses" - only one side (with all the doors and windows) actually sticks out. The rest is covered in a hill of dirt, landscaped on top. Not entirely problem free, though. A couple years ago they had a backhoe up there digging something out on top.
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