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I have a lot of old color slides - some of which have some pretty interesting subject matter. I tried two techniques to print these in B&W and they both worked quite well. With both techniques, I used 4x5 Plux-X sheet film. In the first method, I projected the slide directly onto the sheet film. I used a black paper sheet under the sheet film to minimize flare. I made an image approx 4x5 and developed it. This was then contact printed onto Ilford RC paper and the print was extremely pleasing. It contained the whitest of white and the blackest of black and the detail was very good. This technique has me thinking about buying some very large sheet film. In the second method, I did the same thing and made a 35mm negative size negative for enlarging. This was also good, but not as remarkable as the first method. (I may have discussed this earlier, if so, I apologize for the repeat)
3 responses total.
Some fine tuning ideas to try... method one... suspend the film over a hole in a black box rather than using a black paper backing. This will result in even less flare as the minimal light not absorbed by the black will scatter around in the box a bit. method two... use a slide copier setup to shoot the BW. Load the BW film in your camera and mount the 35mm color slide in front of the copier "lens". with appropriate diffuse light you shoud get a pretty good 35mm negative. (same could be done with any format camera). Oh yeah, almost forgot. In method 1 you might even try a polarizing screen or very mild diffusion filter between the slide projector and the BW film, also intended to reduce scattering of the image (I think a mesh screen, or polarizer would probably work best).
Can any of you tell me how well color negatives work in making black and white prints? I have several photos that I think might look cool in B&W but I haven't a clue as to how they'd turn out...
It works pretty well. I have used a variety of papers and have had good success. Kodak makes a "Panalure" paper which is specifically for making black and white prints from color negatives. This gives excellent results. (Panalure must be handled in total darkness - no "safelite") The negative quality is important and may be grainier than you anticipated. Older ASA 400 negatives, for example, tend to be real grainy. Any negative made in the past few years should yield good results. I have used filters during enlarging and had unusual results. I had one shot of a Lake Michigan Shoreline in the summer and used a high contrast filter and multi-contrast paper. The result was almost no grays. It shows very black drift-wood on a white beach. Other features show up, but only in black. Most people assume it is a snow scene. (however, close inspection shows full leaves on the shoreline trees).
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