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What is the hookup and operating characteristic of a "Hall effect switch"? The ones I am looking at are Sprague # UGN3075LT and #SS41.
43 responses total.
One pin gets +5v, the other com and the third is hi or low, depending on the sense and presance of a magnet, for a digital device. The device No's you list are not in my Sprague catalog. Prob. too old. Give Reptron a call at 1-800-521-4978. They handle Sprague and should be able to send you the info. (Sprague: (603) 224-1961)
Thanks, Klaus! Is it high or low in the absence of B? The cited units are offered (cheap) by All Electronics. I considering building a water velocity meter, based on a propeller with a magnet, and a ripple counter (and a stopwatch). What does it mean (in the description) that with "suitable output pull up, can be used directly with bipolar..... logic circuits". Wouldn't it drive the ripple counter directly?
I would guess that the device is digital and has an open collector output. In order to drive TTL logic with it, you need not only tie the output of the hall device to your logic but also to a 1.2K or so resistor connected to +5V. This is commonly refered to as a "pull-up resistor". If you use CMOS logic, you can increase the resistors value by an order of magnitude, thereby reducing power consumption. (10 or 12K, maybe more?) (I have thought or doing a similar thing for my wife's rowwing shell. Just connect your propeller/magnet setup to a bicycle odometer/speed- ometer/etc. They are cheap, about $20 - $30, and may well be compatable with a hall device (most use a simple magnetic reed switch, wouldn't have to add the pull-up ;-) and are fully programable so far as the the No. of rev's per mile/kilometer/nautical mile/ etc.)
Propellers are more "complicated" than wheels. I have assumed that I would have to calibrate the device because its rotation rate will not be strictly linear with flow velocity. However the odometer is a idea to consider - provides a readout, and *that* could be calibrated to velocity. In regard to the Hall device: I'm going to need a circuit sketch. Could you refer me to a source for "TTL circuits for dummies"?
If you give the propeller a lot of pitch, I would think it's rotation rate vs speed would become fairly linear. TTL for dummies? How about Lancaster's book "TTL Cook Book" or "CMOS Cook Book"? Jung also does a good job with instructional books. See your local Purchase radio, Wedon'thaveitmeyers or Borders. Radio Shack has also surprised me with the quality content of there books over the years.
I chose the prop with the greatest pitch available - 2.0 - with the same thought in mind. Another problem I will have is, how do I calibrate the meter? I can see that maybe I bit off more than I can chew with this project.....
Calibration? Try this model: Make about 3 tests wherein you pour/pump/squeeze/whatever a known quantity of liquid through the measuring-unit and time it. Also (if possible) use the thingie to count the number of rotations. In each of the tests, chanzge the amount of liquid by a large amount and at the susing integer multiples of the original amount. See if there is a good fit or not between the linerity of the time, counts, etc. Then, the easist thing to do would be to make a paper chart with the "prop count number" and the "volume of stuff having passed." Then, just for kicks-n-grins, flow a lot of stuff through it and capture the liquid output, read the prop-counts, and see if the results make sense. Oh, measure the captured output, natch ... How crude/fine of a measure do you need? There will *always* be a mis-measure of some magnitude. If it's within whatever tolerance you can live with, quit playing and get back to work! <g>
I chose a somewhat large propeller - about 2 inches in diameter - to minimize bearing drag. Therefore I would have to pour an *awful lot* of liquid. Also, it shouldn't be in a tube - the unit will be used in open flow, and tube walls would change the reading. I'm sort of stuck with either having a "flume", or towing it on a boat. Klaus, if this thing gets built, would your wife like to help calibrate it (via her shell)?
It also sounds as if you'll be wanting to measure "an *awful lot* of
liquid." Also, if there is going to be "slipppage" in the measurement,
("the unit will be used in open flow") then you're measurements will
NOT have a lot of relevance to that flow! For it to work with any
degree of accuracy, +all+ the liquid has to be directed through the
propeller blades, with as little as posible "slipping by," un-measured.
Rane, what are you trying to do? Measure the velocity of a boat through water, or the amount of water passing a given point? If you are trying to measure the velocity of an object through water, and have good connections to the U of M, try getting some time on the towing tank in the engineering building. Otherwise you can build a device which has 2 pinch rollers driven by a variable speed motor. Put your prop assembly on the end of about 500 ft. of string and place it way out in a quiet lake. Use the pinch rollers to reel in the string, at some constant velocity, while recording the reve/min. of your prop. You could also use something else to reel in your prop. If I were doing it, I'd build my own prop, with about a 6 in. pitch, and simply calculate the velocity knowing that that the prop is making one rev. for every 6 inches it travels. At least I think this would be fine for low speeds like a shell or sail boat. I would guess that a 2 in. pitch would be too tight and that the rev's vs velocity would not be linear over a wide range, though it would depend on the drag of the rest of the prop. I don't think my wife can row a steady enough pace. How about a motor boat on a quiet lake? Motor at a constant speed between two known (distance-wise) points?
That 2.0 is the pitch ratio. The prop is 2 inches, so the pitch is 4 inches. I want the device to measure the flow rate of small streams. I can measure the depth/width cross section, and a few velocity points. Well, I do have good connections at UM (I work there), but hesitate to use all that high tech for my low tech gadget - they would say, why don't you just buy one, instead of spending all this time making one? (And they would have a point: a mechanical one costs $230, though props with electronic counters start at $1300.) I do like your calibration system, Klaus - of course, need some long wires to start and stop the counter - maybe add radio control? For calibrating with a boat - I thought that the boat could glide between two marks, at different initial velocities. A measurement of the distance and the time would give the average velocity, and of course the revolutions and time give the average velocity too. Well, I haven't given this up, yet. I have both a canoe and a sailboat myself: this will be a stimulation to get them in the water more often.
Ok, so it's a whole lot of water, that changes things ........ I'd suggest strongly that the freely-wheeling propeller be mounted inside a tube - I'm guessing that it will be operating as an airplane propeller operates. And would ask whether or not you considered working a paddle wheel at 90 degrees to the water flow, either on the surface or submerged (or both?) turning some other type of indicator/counting/generating device? I don't know how large/small/wide/deep these streams are nor how complex or $$ cheap your parameters are? Of course this whole thing might be simply pure fun with science as well as having a practical value for some research. And there is the remaining question of accuracy. Do you have any sort of opportunity to look at one or another ofthe commercial devices, maybe even with their accuracy parameters, construction, etc.? .
A shroud (tube) isn't used in the commercial systems. The mechanical ones use *very* high pitch props (to overcome friction), while the electronic ones have more normal pitches (I have a catalog in which I can look at the designs). The paddle-wheel type is used in pipe flow applications; of course, for making submerged measurements (the "standard" is to measure at 60% of the total depth, as there is a vertical velocity profile in a stream), a prop is needed. The commerical devices claim 1% accuracy, but of course they have been calibrated. I cannot tell whether the electronic units use *nonlinear* calibrations. The purpose of the device is to monitor the resurgence flow from a spring in an area known as the Fiborn Karst Preserve, owned and managed by the Michigan Karst Conservancy, a non-profit corporation. I am the chair of the science subcommittee of the preserve. Lots of different science is being done there; I am working on hydrology and geochemistry. Its part of a serious avocation, but also legitimate research. Well, I'm still gathering parts.
Wow - this is getting interesting - and "neat." Maybe if you could arrange a demonstration you could ask enough questions, and make enough observations to quasi-duplicate one of the commercial devices. or is there some sort of "store" that sells the flow units? Whatever you do, it also sounds like a lot of real fun.
There are probably numerous suppliers. My catalog is from Forestry Suppliers, Inc (Jackson, MS) who, incidentally, is a great source for all types of professional outdoors technology (but not for lightweight hiking and camping, etc). It is a lot of fun, though I expect the trip this June will be overrun by black flies!
Could you borrow one of these calibrated units from someone to calibrate the one you build?
That is a most sensible suggestion. I may know someone that has access to one.
Ahhaa! Synthesis and synergy - love it! Still need to haul a boat for a way, but at least there will be an accurate comparison. Any ideas on how to effect the testing/comparing? Oh - got one - use a sail boaT or a speed boat - since the velocities of each measuring device through the water would be the same, the actual rate of the boat travel through the water .... Won't Matter! ??eureka?? Anybody got a speed boat for rcurl to play with?
You could also measure the rate at which a length of string is unreeled from the boat to a fixed point on the shore. Since your prop has a 4" pitch, you could make a pinch roller with a 4" circumfrance, also set up with a hall device. If the prop behaves as an ideal one, there should be a one to one corelation to the "tick" marks from both devices. If you can't borrow one, have a sales rep. loan you one to "try out" for a while ;-)
<<<but it's more FUN to borrow a speed boat .... >>>
In sailing circles speed boats are called "stinkpots". Also, that's faster than most streams flow (unless you go over the waterfall).
I'm back on this project...amazing how time flies. This time I am looking *seriously* at Hall Effect switches...new ones from DigiKey cost the same as "surplus", so I have my choice - but what do I need? They come unipolar or bipolar, open collector or pull-up, and with various high-low flux densities. Bipolar would need two magnets (possible...). What I expect to drive is an "exercise computer" which uses just a contact for input (it reports speed and distance - I'd calibrate as needed). The little RS neodymium magnets mentioned in another cf look ideal. Do they have enough oomph 220 gauss unipolar HE? [I could use -120/+120 bipolars with two magnets if necessary.] Final question is....will one of the HE switches itself act as a "contact", or would I need more circuitry, or a relay? [A reed relay is a possibility if one of those little magnets would operate it at a spacing of 5 mm or so.] Advice from those experienced in HE switches would be very much appreciated.
Hmmm... The project I did with HE sensors was for controlling motors on a Leslie rotary organ speaker. I used unipolar sensors, since the bipolar sensors require a *reversed* magnetic field to switch back to "off". I used the Radio Shack magnets since they were very light and therefore would not affect the spin balance of the rotors. I also tested optical sensors (decided that stage lights might be a problem) and reed switches (too noisy for a recording studio). The Hall Effect sensors have a 5V logic output which does not need to be debounced.
<dave tiptoes quietly away from discussion in this foreign language>
I can put two, reversed, magnets on the propeller I use - that would balance it too (not that balance matters at the speed that will occur), so could use the more sensitive bipolar HEs. Scott, how far could you place the RS magnets from your HEs? Also, can you give me the ID for those HEs? Any practical information like this would help me. I guess I will have to characterize the "tach" I propose to use, before I can figure out a driving circuit.
OK, my dusty old notes say that I used a Microswitch SS44, a ~180 Gauss unipolar. The Microswitch phone number is/was (815) 235-6600. The current RS catalog lists the magnets at 2 for $1.49, no data on field strength. I don't recall the exact range limits, but 5mm sounds safe.
Thanks, Scott - a data point! The "exercise computer" I got ($5) for measuring rpm runs on 3 volts. One sensor contact is on the negative side of the 3 volt supply, and the other looks into *2 megohms* and +3 volts. I ran it from a low impedance source by providing a 50% on square wave, 0 to +3 volts (0 volts = closed contact and +3 volts = open contact). The "computer" reads speed and distance (and time). At 100 Hz, the speed reads 12.1. It only reports one decimal place, so low frequencies are inaccurate. The unit bogs down at 300 Hz and will not read higher frequencies linearly. For a flow velocity of 1 fps, with a 2" prop with a pitch ratio of 2, the speed is about 3 rps, or 3 Hz from an HET. For such a low velocity I would use the distance scale. It changes 0.010 for 300 pulses, so would take some time to measure velocity to (say) 5% (600 pulses, or 200 secs). The "computer" is also sensitive to the signal symmetry - 50% on gives the highest counts, and anything else give less (but symmetrically - 40% on or 60% on give the same counts. I don't understand how this works). Since it needs 50% on, it looks like I need a *bipolar* HET with two magnets (or with 4, or 6, magnets, to increase the counts). The above "computer" is what I need to drive, so the HET circuit needs to switch between 0 and +3 volts (or between a low resistance and ca. 5 megohms - which I don't think is practical). How would I design the bipolar HET (OC or pullup) to do this? It might work with the 'low' voltage higher than 0, but I have not determined how much higher it can be.
I suspect you can drive your counter with a HET directly. I don't have a data sheet in front of me, but I suspect a HET requires 5v for operation, a common connection and an output connection. Get one with an open collector output. An open collector output is like a NPN transistor with the emitter tied to common, the base being driven by the magic inside the HET, and the collector brought out for the output. I assume that when you say that one contact is on the negative side of the 3 volt supply, that it is tied to the - side of the battery. If so, this should become the common side of your circuit. I will also assume that the other contact is +3 volts with respect to "common". When the two contacts are shorted together, the once +3 volt contact goes to 0 v with respect to common, right? If so, the unit has an internal pull-up resistor tied to +3 v. This being the case, you can tie common, from your HET, to common of your counter. +5v (or whatever is needed to power the HET. 3 v from the counter if it'll go that low.) to the supply pin of the HET and the +3 v contact from the counter to the open collector output from the HET. The transistor inside the HET will now act as switch between the two contact points. Odd about the 50% duty cycle requirement. All bike speedo's I've ever seen have a small magnet on one spoke to sense a wheel revolution. What? Perhaps a 5% duty cycle?
My function generator has an INV button, which inverts the signal. I just press that, and the 0 level becomes +3 and the +3, 0. The % duty cycle stays the same. At least I think so - I didn't put it on a scope, but just timed it on a multimeter at 0.2 Hz. Well, I'll give that a try. Can a transistor really pull the collector to common? Isn't there a *little* voltage? [I should learn to read transistor characteristic curves - I used them a lot for *tubes*!]
A transistor will pull the collector to about .3 volts of the emitter. The junction potential from base to emitter is about .7 volts. .3 v should be close enough to 0 for your circuit to consider it a 0. The best way to find out is to try it ;-)
Nothing ventured, nothing gained..... I did a more accurate study of the calibration of the "exercise computer". It has no brand name or model, and the only printed units on it is Kcal/Min. for a bargraph (it is LCD). The distance display is x.xxx. The number of pulses of a 50% square wave for one unit in the last place, 0.001, is 30.72 (averaged over tests at input frequencies from 5 to 640 Hz, where it is very linear). The speed display is y.y, in distance/*hour*. Does that number 30.72 (+/- .1) mean anything to anyone? I would have thought that the distance display would be a direct counter output, but I don't se how 30.72 fits with that.
Well, the mechinism of the exercise machine must have been such that the counter received 30.72 pulses for every 0.001 units traveled. The 50% duty cycle criteria is also strange. How do you plan on achieving that?
What's strange about 30.72 is how it can be accomplished. The LCD is reporting in decimal, so somehow counts are manipulated to report a decimal number with that funny ratio. 30.72 is close to centimeters/foot (30.48). It is also exactly 1024(.03). The device does have a clock in it, as the display will also report time. Could there be an actual computer in there? I guess there must be, since it also displays speed (but not exactly - the speeds calculated from distances are all one to three digits in the last significant figure less than what is displayed - could there be an analog component?). I get the 50% duty cycle by using a bipolar HES with symmetrically placed magnets (with reversed polarity). I'm thinking of putting in 8 magnets to increase the pulse frequency at the lowest flowrate (to increase ca. 3 Hz up to 12 Hz), to increase accuracy. Getting them exactly symmetric to get exactly 50% duty cycle might be difficult, but I intend to calibrate the instrument with real flow, so it shouldn't matter. It has occurred to me that the device measures distance not by counting pulses but by using the pulses to gate the clock and counting the clock pulses. If somehow the gate was the shorter segment of the rectangular pulse sequence for more or less than 50% duty cycle, it would account for the decreasing speed/distance measured with any departure from a 50% duty cycle at the same frequency. OK: what's inside - an x'tal, a MC14017BCP chip, a cap, a resistor, and something hidden under a blob of black glop with lots of traces to the LCD display (the driver, I presume).
Yep, your clock gating idea is very likely. That way one can tailor the linearity of the whole system... Interesting... Yep, you can be sure there is a little computer in there. Most likely a 4 bit. The MC14017 is a Motorola Decade Counter. It has 10 outputs, clock, enable and reset inputs. Good for divide by N counting. The blob probably covers the CPU and I'll bet the display drive function is handled by the CPU.
The blob is not as high as the chip, round, and maybe ca. 7/16" diam. There is no usual chip under there.
Perhaps the 30.72 is a result of some horrible analog kludge, and the logic is then calibrated to make a useful value?
Possible....the device comes from an exercise machine/treadmill/??, so there are analog conversion of the mechanical and pickup components. However I am an old hand at reverse engineering, and always look for meaning in numbers and ratios (I was able to deduce that the speed is given in distance/*hour*, although I originally calculated it as distance/second - I noticed the "suspicious" ratio of 3600 to match the display). I picked up some RS rare-earth magnets. Says they have a field strength of 10,000 gauss (!). That's nudge an HET. They are actually 0.20 inches in diameter, although the catalog says 1/8 inch. I would have preferred 1/8 inch, but oh well....
Under the epoxy blob on your PC board is the die one usually finds in a chip. Common practice in many devices like that. i.e. the PC board is *part* of the chip.
So, without the epoxy, it would be a bare IC? How is it put on the board and connected to the traces (which cldarly radiate from various sides of it). What is the advantage of this?
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- Backtalk version 1.3.30 - Copyright 1996-2006, Jan Wolter and Steve Weiss