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Wanted to know what the problem is. The monitor was flickering (white, horizontal lines that came and went) and it's brightness flickered. Thought it was a voltage problem, but now it's very bright and steady. I have bright and contrast = 0.
6 responses total.
Could someone tell me how to open up the LG Studioworks 17". I know enough to be very very EXTREMELY super wary. I couldn't find any screws at the rear of the monitor, but when i rotated the monitor 180deg and placed it on it's top, the plastic faceplate of the monitor has tiny plastic lever like things that you can push down on (and i think that would slip off the face plate). What i wanted to know was if that was the place to open it up at? It seems dangerous to be opening up the front rather than the rear (I'm closer to the CRT and the risk of implosion because of the tube breaking). Anyway, all i want to do is take a look at what's inside, identify the various parts, put the cover back and take it to the repair guys.
And what i noticed was that, when i look at the base of the monitor, there is a slot like thing for a screw-driver but no screws. I was wondering is i should insert a thin screwdriver and trip some latch?
You're very unlikely to implode a modern CRT accidentally, especially by damaging the screen end. The glass there is very thick. The most fragile part of a CRT is the "neck" portion at the back. I don't know what to tell you as far as getting it open. All the monitors I've taken apart had recessed screws in back. (Sometimes very deeply recessed.)
Hey Gull. I've been a bit nervous about the whole thing because someone on USENET said that the HV inside can get past surgical gloves. I'd also wear shoes but i think it's best to take it to the repair guy and ask my dad to pay for a TV repair course instead of doing it in this half assed fashion. If you know of any GOOD books that deal with TV Repair for the Noob, please let me know. I did check Amazon, but there were some bad reviews for the popular books and I couldn't decide anything.
The main high voltage point you'll come across is the CRT anode connection, which is on the rear side of the flared part of the CRT. It's generally covered by a rubber suction-cup like shield. The voltage there can range from 3kV for small back and white sets to as much as 50kV on large color ones. You wouldn't have to deal with that unless you were replacing the CRT or the flyback transformer, though; just stay away from that point and you'll be OK. Another issue is that most TVs do not use isolated power supplies. This can present a shock hazard from 120V (or 240V, depending on what country you live in) from just about any point on the circuit board. Surgical gloves aren't really helpful in preventing shocks. For one thing they're too easily punctured by sharp terminals.
I like the description of the anode given above. It is very dangerous. There is a safe and reasonable way to ground this out. A needed step as the charge can stay trapped in there for weeks after the last time power was provided to the unit. This should be described in any good repair guide. I took a shock from a similar voltage but with much less total charge from an engine. It knocked me down and my arm was paralyzed for about 20 seconds. Not to mention the pain. At least my heart kept going. :)
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