Rhododendrons
 
They're beautiful. All I know is that they need acidic soil, usually
part-shade, and they need to be covered with burlap in the winter.
 
Well I planted an azalea (pink) and a rhododendron this fall. And I
never got around to covering them with burlap, though I did mulch them
well. And the azalea is right next to the house, so it's warmer anyway.

The rhododendron seems to have survived the winter and snow rather
well so far (fingers-crossed), though it did seem rather shrivelled
up in the height of snow season. It didn't shed it's big, fat, waxy
leaves. I hope it flowers without problems ... (I can't wait).
 
Any advice, or tips on how to care for them?

15 responses total.

The acid soil is important.  We have slightly alkaline soil, so you have to
add chemicals frequently to maintain acidity.  The nurseries will sell you
I think aluminum sulfate but iron sulfate is probably better for the soil if
you have a choice.  Rhododendrons grow well in New England.  I have given up
growing things that don't like our soil:  lost two chestnuts that need acid
soil and two dune chrries and two beach plums that need sandy soil and all
the fruit on two sand cherries rotted because it is too humid here.  It is
safest to grow things you already find growing here.  My neighbor planted
several azaleas and they all died, but if you work at it you can grow them
here.  I look forward to hearing about your first blossoms, but don't be
disappointed if the stress of transplanting delays them a year.

So you're saying that the azalea and rhododendron will probably not survive?
Bummer. I was looking forward to lush blooms etc.
You know I have seen rhododendrons blooming beautifully in the area
here...I thought it was well adapted to the region.

No, I'm saying that they need to have their soil acidified every year, and
the neighbor whose azaleas died had just moved in and did not know this.  The
climate is just fine for them.  We tried acidifying our chestnuts but the
leaves still turned yellow (chlorosis, a sign of insufficient iron which must
be involved in chlorophyll synthesis, and was not getting absorbed properly
because of the alkaline soil, which is why we tried iron sulfate).  But they
also need sandy soil (which I think tends to be more alkaline) and I don't
think that azaleas do.  Good luck, you might want to invest in just one to
start with.  

I'll have to stop by a nursery and get a big tub of acidifying stuff...
I have both planted right now...azalea & rhododendron.

I found an article about rhododendrons...
They are the most popular woody plants in the U.S. Lots of variety in size,
shape and leaf color for shady gardens. Many, many shades and colors of
white, pink, red, purple, orange and even magenta. 
Flowers are frilly, plain, with narrow or broad petals, even bell/funnel or
saucer shaped flowers in different cluster styles.

Heights vary from one foot to ten feet tall. They go dense or airy (espalier
style - flat against a wall). Some are wimpy, some extremely hardy. There
are about 1000 species. Soil cannot be alkaline, MUST be acidic.
 
All azaleas are rhododendrons. They are all in that genus. More azaleas
are deciduous than rhododendrons.  Azaleas never have scaly leaves.
They can have hairs.   The biggest difference is that rhododendrons
generally have 10 stamens, while azaleas have 5. That's it.

Call the american Rhododendron Society if you have questions :
   (804-693-4433)

Rhododendrons continue to grow, even after 10 yrs. They bloom early, then
just stay green all year. SO pick a mix that bloom at different times.
Plant in groups for drama. They like SHADE. SHort blooming season.
Acidity in soil : pH4.5 to 6.5 (moderatley acid). Loam or sandy loam soil.
Plant near a house for protection.  Good drainage is essential.

Pinch off the growth bud (not flower bud) for denser growth. Water weekly.
Roots are shallow, fine and suffer easily. Mulch with bark chips or pine
needles. 

Fertilize in spring - before July 1 in any case, or new growth could freeze.
(Acidifying fertilizer like ammonium sulphate. DOn't use aluminum sulphate
 -  it can damage the plant.)

While trying to find the name of the native rhododendron relative in N. E.,
I discovered they are all part of the Ericaceae or heath family, which  is
very widely distributed on acid soils, 25 genera in the US alone.  Most are
evergreen.  Included are the native mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia),
leatherleaf (Leucothoe), pieris (also a favorite in New England, where the
soil is acidic), heather, and heath, among bushes.  Smaller plants include
trailing arbutus, wintergreen, bearberry, and cranberry and blueberry
(Vaccinium).  They all need acid soil, but can sometimes grow in pots.  Maybe
you should try a few blueberry bushes in with the rhododendrons?
Have members of this conference ever had a garden tour of everyone's gardens
in the spring or summer?  I would love to see them all.

This response has been erased.

Could we include a progressive potluck (everyone starts at the same place,
and eats something while looking at each garden, maybe fresh from the
garden?).

This response has been erased.

I hope to have apricots (small and sour but tasty) around July, and pawpaws
in early October. The squirrels get all the hazelnuts before they ripen.

My yard is heavily shaded by oaks and hickorys.  This creates acidic soil,
and would seem to be a good environment for rhododendrons, so I've put a few
in.  I'm told you are better off with locally grown ones, because they are
more winter-hardy than ones grown in the south.  Got mine at cheap sales at
Franks and Kmart.  They are doing pretty ok.  For best results you are
supposed to protect them with burlap in the winter, if they are in an exposed
area.  I didn't, and during prolonged cold spells many of the leaves dried
up and turned brown.  One Azalea died.  The rhodos survived, but looked
sickly, and decided not to bloom that spring.  This winter I got a spray
bottle of plant protector stuff, that coats the leaves with some plasticky,
waxy stuff.  Sprayed them in the fall.  They look fine this spring.  I believe
they are pretty sensitive to dry spells--you can see their poor leaves getting
limp when they are thirsty or cold.  It could be that watering in the fall
and winter would help them survive the cold, too.

This has also been a very mild "winter".

I applied "MIRACID" soil acidifier to my rhododendron and azalea today.

It's neither aluminum sulfate nor iron sulfate (sulphate?) .
It consists of : chelated iron, copper, manganese, zinc. Lots of nitrogen.
(from ammonium phosphate and Urea)
Phosphate from Ammonium etc.

All azaleas, camelias, rhododendrons, evergreens, hydrangeas, gardenias, 
dogwoods, orchids and ferns need acid conditions.... Hmm, more
uses for MIRACID..

I just read that iron is more available in acid soils, so you probably have
to add iron to our alkaline soil to compensate.  We added iron sulfate to get
both iron and acidity.  Probably the other metals are also less available in
our alkaline soil.  The nitrogenous stuff might add acidity.

    When we eventually get the huge Spruce trees removed
from the back of our house, I hope to plant a Rhododendron
there, which should like the acid soil they left behind.

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