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Looking for....
20 responses total.
Looking for....replacement rims (wheels) for Subaru GL (5Jx13) - not chrome. Could not find at Discount Tire; $190 at dealer. Is there a less expensive source?
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Rane, I am not in CompuServe anymore, but there was a guy who advertised on the classified ads there who had any kind of wheel you could think of. It was under "wheels." If you have any access to CS he probably is still there. Junk yard prices seem high to me, but they often have the parts. I priced an '87 Escort grille at local junkyards and they were more than at the Ford Parts and Service. I recently priced an air cleaner box and it was $50.
Years ago I got some wheels from a guy who was advertising wheels of all sorts in the A^2 paper. Heck, you might even find an entire worn out Subaru GL there for $190! When in a hurry I do as popcorn suggests. Get on the phone and call all the junk yards you are willing to visit to pick up the part. Prices are *much* better than dealer or parts store.
Yes, try the junk yard. Got a rim and tire for my wife's car at one and although I don't recall the price, I remember the tire was worth it by itself (actually I didn't want the tire, but they threw it in the deal, so what the heck). I'd be interested to see how the rim price is adjusted for Subaru-ness. If you've read the How to Keep Your Subaru Alive repair book, you may remember the author says that Subaru parts vary wildly across sources, so it is worth calling many places for the lowest price.
Having just bough brand new Subaru in May, I wonder if this book is worth getting?
Maybe at ca. 130,000 miles, its time to get serious about keeping my Subaru alive! The wheels are just "ordinary" 5Jx13s - is that unique to Subarus? I noticed a sale on "White Wagon Wheel" rims at Sears for this weekend - I'll popo by and see what they have.
I don't know if this book is still in print (I borrowed the one at the AA Public Library). It is fun reading as the author has a pretty good sense of humor and tries to explain all the technical stuff in layperson's terms. Although he covers a lot of repairs, he's not afraid to tell you when to take it to the professionals (e.g., those repairs requiring expensive special tools). I believe this is the same guy who wrote How to Keep Your Volkswagon Alive. Subarus and Veedubs have the same style of engine (though the Subie's is water-cooled). There is an order coupon in the back of the book, for ordering directly from the publisher. That might be worth a shot (assuming you look at the library's copy). I found the Alive book easier to follow than the Chilton's manual, though I suppose having both wouldn't hurt if you are serious about doing your own repairs.
I just feed, water, air, charge and alcohol my cars now...I leave the heavy lifting to the professionals. But let me tell you about the time I rebuilt the engine of my '37 Cadillac.....
I don't think I'll get much out of the Keep your Subaru Alive book. Any car repair book that refers me to "professionals" defers just as things are getting interesting for me! Unfortunately the 3 volume service manual for the 95 Subaru goes for $50/volume! I don't care for Chilton's because the people who write them obviously never looked under the hood of the car they are writing about.
Hayne's manuals are pretty good. You can find them at a lot of import car part stores. They are *always* more accurate than Chilton, and if you can read British, you can read these. ;)
I checked with Sears for replacement rims but they don't supply them for Subaru wagons of my vintage. I didn't want to run around any more, so I bought a set from Subaru. I tried for a further discount but learned they were already discounted - from $120 *each*. [I asked for "those gold-plated rims" when I went in....]
At least you know they are the same width, will fit, don't have a layer of rust where the bead seal is and run true. All potential problems with the used stuff ;-)
Right. In fact, rust where the bead seal is was one reason for replacement (I lose air), as well as a warning from an automotive engineer I know that I was running the chance of a catastrophic failure due to rust, this winter. Now, could the old rims be fixed - say, sandblasted and painted - to return them to saleable/desirable condition? I didn't even look into that, since it would have obviously put my car out of commission for a few days, but would there be a market for "refurbished" rims?
Are these rims so rusted out that their structural intregity is in question or is it just the rust under the bead? The used rims I got had significant rust in the bead area so I went at it with a file and sandpaper. I suspect sandblasting would work just as well. Inspect after your done and smooth out any pits with a medium or fine rat-tail file. I'll bet that any deep pits or gouges can be filled with body putty. Before painting or putting on the body putty, pickle the metal with an acid solution to etch the metal. This will improve paint adhesion which will reduce future rust problems. I didn't go to these extreems with my rims. Just got the bead area nice and smooth and hit it with some black spray paint. Used them winters only for 8 years without a problem. They wern't even the same widths. Unfortunatly the rims on our Subaru are 14" so I can't use your old ones.
Re 10: in defense of the Alive book (for what that's worth ;) the author does show you how to make and finagle any "special" tools you might need assuming they are within reasonable range of the backyard mechanic's skills and shop. If you expect the book to assume you have a $20,000 machine for one specific chore that you may perform *once* in the car's life, then I think that's a bit much for a do it yourself job (and book)...you might have more money to spend on such tools than I or others, though :) Seriously, some things are just plain cheaper to leave to those who have the occasion to spread the usage of expensive, specialized tools over more fixit jobs (as well as the capital to invest). I have the publisher's address and phone in a file on another partition of my harddrive (which I can't access right now because I'm using a different operating system), should anyone be interested in investigating the book further. Let me know, and I'll post here.
My Subaru rims are rusted externally. My automotive consultant thought that it would be this winter's dosage of salt that might cause enough damage to lead to structural failure. I don't think the rust is deep enough for that at the moment. Maybe I should just hold them and offer them for sale as-is - though if I could get an expert judgment, I might have them sandblasted and painted first. Suggestions and/or offers solicited! :)
Arnet's at 4495 Jackson Rd. does sand blasting and I've heard good things about them. I've done my time replacing exhaust systems, brakes, shocks, cluches, etc. I take my cars to a mechanic most of the time now but with all that time I have spent fooling with my cars lets me talk to the mechanics at their level. I still do fluid changes, brakes, filters, rebuild my own alternators, etc. when I feel like it or when I know more than the mechanic ;-)
I'm working on refurbishing the aged interior of an '88 Mustang right
now from junkyard parts ... simply put there's always one car of that exact
make somewhere in the local area that was wrecked before it could get twenty
or thirty miles on it, and the interior's usually in good shape. I feel a
bit guilty ransacking the puppy for parts, but it *is* in a junkyard ...
If it's been sitting there since 1988 then don't feel guilty. Is that one of those Mustang II's?
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