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| 25 new of 63 responses total. |
n8nxf
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response 25 of 63:
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Nov 4 14:31 UTC 1997 |
There is no good rack for the Subaru Legacy that I was able to find. The
roof is simply not designed to support a decent rack. Yakama makes a
little
bent piece of ~1/8" black painted stainless the measures about 6" X 3" with
two holes in it for 1/4" of 5/16" stainless carriage bolts. You use standard
Yakama gutter-mount towers with these and you need to *bolt* them to your
roof. They have another version of these mounts that get attached with
self
tapping screws, but I don't trust them. Reinforcement between the cars roll
cage and the places where the Yakama pads mount also ads a lot of stiffness
to the rack. I have the 48" long bars on or rack and you can grab hold of
those, bounce the car up and down with all your might and you won't see the
sheet metal on my roof budge.
The Subarus are pretty low to the ground. It gets a lot worse when you add
a trailer hitch. However, they are very stable cars! A good friend of
ours was rear-ended by a Camaro doing 75 while he was doing 55. Not only
that, but he was towing a full-sized Coleman pop-up camper behind his '95
Subaru! The trailer was totaled, the hitch was totaled and he needed a new
bumper and tailgate(?) after all was said and done. The crash sent the
whole "train" careening down the freeway sideways but the Subaru stayed
upright and its human contence intact. He said his old Jimmy would have
flipped for sure.
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srw
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response 26 of 63:
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Nov 4 19:02 UTC 1997 |
I bought the roofrack from Subaru in 1990 when the car was new. I didn't
like it as much as the one I had had on the car it replaced, but it has
been adequate for *my* needs. I wouldn't put more than about 200 pounds
up there.
I think the outback is ugly too. They also make a new, smaller,
higher-clearance car, the Forester. I haven't driven one. It is *not* a
SUV - it's much lower. But it has good clearance and a manual and
all-wheel drive. All are pluses from my POV. Same engine as the Legacy,
I believe.
It has a different body shape. I think it is better looking than the
outback. You'll have to decide for yourself, though. The engineering is
generally excellent on all Fuji Heavy Industries' cars.
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rcurl
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response 27 of 63:
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Nov 4 20:22 UTC 1997 |
The Forester (175.2") is quite a bit shorter than the Legacy (184.5"), and
the difference comes out of rear legroom and cargo depth. Roof racks are
also not optional on the Forester. Subaru does call the Forester "The
Sport-Utility Designed for the Real World" (?!).
The Yakima brackets for a gutter rack would be OK (except for having to
drill into the roof - something I'd prefer a dealer did, like I preferred
a doctor to have removed by gall bladder.. :> ), except they fixes the
front-back span. I shift gutter towers for different loads that I carry.
Everyone's information is very helpful toward my decision(s) - thanks!
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i
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response 28 of 63:
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Nov 4 23:46 UTC 1997 |
My understanding from CU is that Subaru based the Forester on the Legacy
every which way they could.
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scg
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response 29 of 63:
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Nov 5 05:41 UTC 1997 |
I saw a Forester today, and it sure looked like a sport utility vehicle to
me. It may be that just shortening the legacy gave it that shape, and without
other sport utility vehicles around to compare it to, a big size difference
wasn't obvious, or something.
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n8nxf
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response 30 of 63:
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Nov 5 22:12 UTC 1997 |
I heard that the forester was based on the Impreza, not the Legacy..?
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i
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response 31 of 63:
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Nov 5 23:17 UTC 1997 |
The Impreza is Subaru's smallest car & the Legacy their "bigger" car. The
Foresters that i've seen certainly looked Legacy-size.
In #28, i didn't mean that the Forester & Legacy share a common shape
(though we're not talking square & round here), but that the Forester is
mostly a SUV-ified Legacy. It's certainly no (monster-size) Suburban or
(not designed to drive on paved roads) traditional Jeep, but it's a real
SUV.
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n8nxf
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response 32 of 63:
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Nov 6 01:17 UTC 1997 |
Anyone happen to know what the wheelbase is on the Impreza?
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srw
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response 33 of 63:
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Dec 1 03:34 UTC 1997 |
I would say that the Forester is only a partly SUV-ized Legacy. One
feature common to SUV's, and highly prized by most SUV owners is the
height of the driver over the road. In the Forester this is only
minimally greater than the Outback, which is in turn only minimally
greater than the Legacy. True SUVs are much higher than the Forester
(compare with Nissan Pathfinder, Ford Explorer, even the small Toyota
Rav).
It is shorter than the Legacy, as Rane noted. SUVs are not known for
their length, except in certain extremely large models.
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rcurl
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response 34 of 63:
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Dec 1 06:42 UTC 1997 |
I've decided that I don't want a 'truck'. I want a wagon with 'good'
clearance, a clean roof for fixing a rack, gas mileage at least 20 mpg
or better, manual shift, a 'bed' at least 6 feet long behind the front
seats, and 4WD (maybe, AWD) - and for less than ca. $25. The last car
like that is what I have - the Subaru GL wagon. I guess I will have to
sink money into the old rustbucket to keep it alive until people come
to their senses.
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n8nxf
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response 35 of 63:
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Dec 1 15:15 UTC 1997 |
Perhaps you should look into the used car marked down south where they
don't spread salt on the roads every winter. You will have far less
luck waiting for people to come to their senses.
I wonder if Linseed oil would make a good rust preventitive? I read about
someone using it inside bicycle frames to keep them from rusting from the
inside out. I've been spraying motor oil inside door panels and such in
attempt to keep the rust at bay.
Subaru Model Length Width Wheelbase
Forester 175.2" 68.3" 99.4"
Impreza 172.2" 67.1" 99.2"
Legacy wagon 180.1" 67.5 103.5
The wheelbase on the Impreza and Forester are pretty darn close.
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rcurl
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response 36 of 63:
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Dec 1 16:08 UTC 1997 |
Subaru GL 173.6 65.4 97.0
A fault of the GL is the too tight rear legroom. They did add more
in the Legacy.
Yes...sigh...trucks won't fall out of favor unless the mileage requirements
get applied to them as well as "cars" - or unless fuel prices go much
higher. It has occurred to me to look "down south" for a GL in better
condition than mine - but that is such a gamble, buying a used car from
far away (unless one has a 'connection' with someone scrupulously honest...
know anyone?).
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kentn
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response 37 of 63:
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Dec 2 00:50 UTC 1997 |
Re: 35, dunno about linseed oil, but I spilled a quart of motor oil in
my truck's engine compartment about ten years back and that spill is now
the least rusty part. I imagine grease would be even better as long as
it wasn't tying up any moving parts. But any oil is apt to be better
than nothing...
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rcurl
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response 38 of 63:
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Dec 2 02:53 UTC 1997 |
I've been wondering what might be good to spray on the rust. It is tricky,
as moisture can get under many coatings, and then rust really accelerates.
If oil - motor or linseed - were really good, I would think there would be
spray-on preparations for sale to put on rust spots to slow them down.
(The lower panels below a rear tire rusted out on my Subaru and a *lot*
of dust got into the car on dirt (dry) roads - until I just filled the
space with polyurethane foam. It occurred to me to fill *all* the spaces
with foam, so when the metal rusted away, I would have a foam car....)
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kentn
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response 39 of 63:
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Dec 2 03:54 UTC 1997 |
Heh, I hear you...think mebbe I'll try that foam car... Actually, since
my oil spill was in the engine compartment, it's still relatively
protected from the elements. But compared to similar areas of the engine
compartment, the spill area held up the best. I don't know what salt
and road grime would do to an oil-coated part--probably wear off the oil
eventually. But inside doors, where there isn't constant abrasion and
contact with corrosive chemicals, maybe oil or grease would hang in there
(the problem there is in the application).
I know not all rust-proofing materials are created equal (cf. my 83 Subaru
GL wagon, which had rust-proofing but still suffered significant rust
damage) so not even paint or rubberized coatings last. Probably the
main problem is that once the "seal" or "bond" is broken between the rust
inhibitor (be it oil, grease, paint, whatever) and the metal, then water
leaks in and oxidation starts. Fiberglas...that's the ticket...yeah...
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n8nxf
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response 40 of 63:
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Dec 3 17:16 UTC 1997 |
I have used oil inside doors and other isolated spaces for several decades.
It works very well. I have never had a door rust out along the bottom
even though I would see the same model / year on the road with the doors
rusted out. Some areas are difficult to protect, however. The floor pan
is one of those areas. When it rusts out, I use scraps of aluminum, old
rags soaked in roofing tar and more roofing tar to patch it all up. Rags
soaked in roofing tar make fantastic patches! The patch can even be painted
once the tar has set up after a week or so. It won't be as pretty as a good
Bondo or fiberglass job, but it will outlast it! I also paint the insides
of my wheel wells with roofing tar to keep the metal there protected so it
doesn't start to rust.
Our Chevy Nova, now almost 12 years old with 115K on the clock, still looks
very good. I never had it rust-proofed. I find that rust proofing really
doesn't work very well. If it gets a little hole in it and rust starts,
the rust blister will swell the area and allow more water / salt to get in
and more rust, etc. It is also difficult for this area to dry out so you
get rusting than too. For rust to take place you need three things: 1)
metal 2)moisture 3)oxygen. Eliminate any of the three and you will not
get rust.
I like oil because it displaces water and will flow where water flows, like
into the metal seams along the bottom of a door trunk-lid, rocker panel, etc.
It never gets hard so it doesn't form a harbor for rust to hide in like
hard rust proofing does. I built an atomizer with a long snoot on it this
year. I used it on the Nova this year. It created quite the oil-fog
however! Perhaps it would be better to squirt than fog the oil? I use
90 weight motor oil and cut it with kerosene before fogging.
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scott
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response 41 of 63:
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Dec 4 17:27 UTC 1997 |
Newer cars are apparently better designed to resist rust. I haven't done
anything to my Jetta, but it does look like a little oil has leaked out the
door-bottom drains as if Klaus was in there with his oil-fogger.
The problem with using oil on rusty spots is that the soap at the car wash
will remove it...
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n8nxf
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response 42 of 63:
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Dec 5 18:27 UTC 1997 |
I never use soap. Never have unless there was a stuborn spot.
I've always looked at cars a few years older than mine, of the same
model, to see where the potential rust problems are.
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srw
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response 43 of 63:
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Dec 20 22:21 UTC 1997 |
I think the Subarus got better wrt rust when they introduced the Legacy, too.
Based on your requirements in resp:34, Rane, I think the Legacy Wagon
would do the job for you.
My 8-year old Legacy is still doing OK rustwise, except for the
rear door. I'm inclined to believe I would replace it with another if nothing
better comes along in the next 5-7 years. 15 years is my extimated lifetime
for it.
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n8nxf
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response 44 of 63:
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Dec 22 12:35 UTC 1997 |
Our '95 Legacy claims to have 75% of the body panels galvanized. It also
came coated with a really gooey rust proofing from the factory. This stuff
is inside the body panels as well as underneath. I have noticed oxidation
in only a couple of places: The optional, aluminum, air deflector screwed
on just above the rear window and the metal framework that supports the
trunk latch and license plate lights. The air deflector problem seems to
be galvanic since it is aluminum screwed to metal. I have also noticed
that the more recent deflectors are now made of plastic.
Our Legacy is the bottom of the line Brighton. It is a very nice car. My
only complaint is the ground clearance. I have noticed that the all the
Legacy's come with 14" wheels, except the Out Back which comes with 15"
wheels. The tires on our wagon will need to be replaced soon and I would
like to go to a taller tire to help improve ground clearance. Does anyone
know where I can go to find out how large a tire I can use on the Legacy?
Will camber and toe-in need to be readjusted? I know that the speed-o
will read lower but we can compensate for that. Same for the odometer.
BTW, the ground clearance issue only became an issue after we added a
trailer hitch.
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rcurl
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response 45 of 63:
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Dec 24 05:54 UTC 1997 |
That (low clearance) is a major problem for me with the Legacy, because I use
my cars on unimproved roads. The GL has been fine, but anything lower will
be a problem. The Legacy GL has larger tires - and a bigger engine than
the plain legacy - but also a sunroof, which I don't want.
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n8nxf
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response 46 of 63:
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Dec 24 12:06 UTC 1997 |
What is the difference in ground clearance between the Legacy and the GL?
Or has that already been posted here somewhere?
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kentn
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response 47 of 63:
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Dec 24 17:52 UTC 1997 |
Are there any after-market products you can get to improve the ground
clearance?
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rcurl
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response 48 of 63:
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Dec 26 05:17 UTC 1997 |
I haven't yet found the clearance for the Legacy GL (or, is that GT?).
It also has power windows - bummer - can't open and close windows when
car is not running.
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srw
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response 49 of 63:
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Dec 28 21:48 UTC 1997 |
Power windows are mildly annoying, but we got used to them very quickly.
They come with the power door locks, and you'd be surprised how handy it
is to be able to lock up a 5-doored car with one touch as you're
exiting.
I don't know about clearance. I never evaluated that. It has enough
clearance for me, so I am happy with it, even on Michigan dirt roads,
but it sounds like you have more stringent requirements.
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