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| Author |
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| 25 new of 191 responses total. |
keesan
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response 110 of 191:
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Feb 8 02:11 UTC 2013 |
In about two hours we decided where to put two more space heaters in two small
upstairs rooms. The fan-forced one can't be behind a door, or have a toilet
or sink right in front of it, so goes under a window on the surface. We had
to move around a lot of ductwork in two rooms so that the incoming air would
not blow cold on the thermostat in one (not important in the bathroom since
it will be used mainly as on/off to heat things up quickly). Then we moved
the outgoing air ducts away from the incoming air ducts so that the air would
not go in and immediately out of the rooms. This leaves two more rooms with
too many doors that you cannot put heat behind. Perhaps on an interior wall
under a closet door?
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rcurl
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response 111 of 191:
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Feb 8 05:39 UTC 2013 |
"Detergent kills bacteria on dishes."
Untrue.
In answer to the question "do dishwashing detergents kill bacteria"?
"It does not disinfect alone. Detergents (ie. dish soap) are used to
soluablize fats and protein residues so you can get them off of dishes.
That is why automatic dishwashers are heated, it's the heat that kills
the bacteria rather than the detergents. If you really want to be sure
to disinfect dishes, though you should not contract anything from the
dishes unless you are immunocompromised, you can add about 1-3 capfulls
of bleach to an average sink-full of dishwater."
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tod
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response 112 of 191:
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Feb 8 06:17 UTC 2013 |
Do the dishes get washed before or after Cindy's bath using a 12oz mug?
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bellstar
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response 113 of 191:
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Feb 8 10:12 UTC 2013 |
Living in large, dense colonies greatly increases energy efficiency. I live
in one. Pick one to maximize: independence or efficiency.
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keesan
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response 114 of 191:
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Feb 8 13:32 UTC 2013 |
If you wash the food off dishes there is not much for bacteria to grow on.
Leftovers probably have a lot more bacteria than washed dishes.
We put the last two space heaters under the front windows and the thermostats
around the corner from them (doors in the way otherwise).
I don't think it much matters what time of day we use heat, but the second
meter makes it possible to get a lower rate at all times of day in winter.
The next big challenge is to find a way to get the wires upstairs to the
heaters (before closing in downstairs ceilings). Also the heaters should
ideally be installed after the downstairs floors are tiled but I think we can
put them in later.
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keesan
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response 115 of 191:
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Feb 8 21:53 UTC 2013 |
Trying to find a way to put on IKEA light fixtures with a 1/2" pan and maybe
a 1/2" round extender instead of a 1" wiremold box, to get it 1/2" higher up
but that leaves a 1/2" gap. There is a lot of phone miscommunication going
on with Jim, who refuses to come here, and the person doing the wiring. We
have had the fixture on three different ways now and may go back to the first.
We started by testing the four 3-way switches with a battery and LED and
rewiring two so the switches were all down when the lights were all on.
---- a while later
The extender is off, the pan is off, and we are going to put back the wiremold
box. Only two hours going in circles. The fixture will be an extra inch down
from the ceiling. We may even get up a smoke alarm (on wiremold box) today.
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keesan
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response 116 of 191:
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Feb 8 23:31 UTC 2013 |
For $6 at ebay (has been as low as $4.50) I can get a Tork 125V 1000W 24-hour
timer to use with the water-heater relay (120V) to turn the heater on and off
at 30 min or longer intervals up to 24 times a day. I could put one with each
thermostat (line voltage, non-programmable) to turn the heat off and on again
once a day. $24 for four heaters. Much cheaper than programmable thermostats
since I don't care what the temp drops to in 8 hours (1-2 deg F?).
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keesan
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response 117 of 191:
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Feb 9 00:45 UTC 2013 |
The timers are actually $4 plus $2 shipping and combined shipping could be
less. We got two ceiling lights in and started the first smoke alarm but the
round metal plate that will hold it against the ceiling needs a couple of
screw holes added first. Interesting effect of bulbous detector (alarm)
against flat round metal box.
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keesan
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response 118 of 191:
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Feb 9 02:55 UTC 2013 |
Ts Taylor emailed with his phone number, offering to help with the wiring,
but I somehow deleted his email - please send it again (or could someone else
who knows him send it to us or email us and I will send our phone number)?
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keesan
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response 119 of 191:
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Feb 9 03:49 UTC 2013 |
The cheap Tork timer is $6, good for 15A. The heaters would work on a 15A
circuit but we already have a lot of 20A breakers and No. 12 (20A) wire.
A line-voltage thermostat is as low as $5, programmable $25. I asked at an
online forum whether these timers wear out faster than programmable
thermostats. Several reviews mentioned that some models go bad in a year or
so. They are mechanical. A 20A mechanical timer is about $25.
Someone at this forum said we should have wire brushed the paint off the box
before added the ground bars, and grounded them to the neutral bars with the
same wire as to the water pipe. But I think we are supposed to keep the
ground and neutral bars separate in this main panel without bonding screw
(another long discussion at two forums).
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keesan
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response 120 of 191:
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Feb 9 12:20 UTC 2013 |
Jim says he has removed paint but it is not necessary.
The mechanical timer by Tork (discontinued - lots of places have them marked
way down in only almond color, $4 plus shipping) requires a 2.5" deep
electrical box which I can't find for sale, and since we are doing surface
wiring it would stick out rather far. A thermostat is 1.25" to 1.75" deep.
They should not go in the same box or the timer will heat the thermostat.
It is more work to use two boxes (including the wallboard).
Standard boxes are 1.5", deep ones 2", and you can get shallower ones (1"?).
The cheaper (mechanical - bimetal) line-voltage thermostats regulate
temperature to within 3 deg F and do 2 cycles/hour, which I think means they
would only go on and off twice an hour. If I get heaters that are 2-3 times
calculated heat load, that would be about 10-15 min on and I think it
could easily overshoot by more than 3 deg F with a lot of insulation.
Bimetal types click, electronic types have TRIACS (quiet) which wear out.
A much simpler solution is an electronic programmable thermostat, in one box.
They should be kept away from drafts, supply air, and the sun.
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keesan
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response 121 of 191:
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Feb 9 12:49 UTC 2013 |
Wikipedia discusses thermostats. The bimetal (mechanical) ones are built
into baseboard and fan-forced heaters and turn things on and off. Programmable
electronic ones can work like a lamp dimmer and reduce heat output, if I
understand correctly, for more even temperatures. Or turn the heat on and
off every minute or so. A hydronic heater would average things out anyway.
Electronic ones can have relays (which click) or triacs which wear out.
Turning the heater on and off a lot wears it out. Our plug-in hydronic
heaters have never worn out - maybe they are talking about the fan types.
It would be nice to postpone all this a year and just heat with the 1500W
bathroom fan-forced heater with bimetal non-programmable built-in thermostat.
Which should arrive some time in the next week but not be usable until we
get an electrical inspection before having the meter installed in the time of
day electric panel. By which time it won't be heating season.
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keesan
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response 122 of 191:
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Feb 9 18:52 UTC 2013 |
LuxPro ELV4 (from the maker of the classic white windup kitchen timer) is a
SP thermostat, heat only, 45-90F, electronic, with thermostat and clock and
backlight, requires two AA batteries, allows 4 different heat periods a day,
different settings weekdays and weekends, is $32 at
http://www.westsidewholesale.com with free shipping for orders over $50.
The LUX LV1 no-programmable model is $18.16. This is overkill but obviates
the need for thermometer, clock, second box, and more wiring time, and may
eventually pay for itself ($60 extra for five of them can save at least 15%
of at least $100/year, 4 year or less payback). It should also even out
temperature swings when the heat is on compared to a mechanical timer or
thermostat.
http://airnwater.com sells the heaters relatively cheap, with free shipping
and currently 10% discount. Forget ebay.
Today we will be wiring in three smoke alarms and two junction boxes for the
alarms (which need to be wired to upstairs ones) and the lights.
Jim's bathroom ceiling heater came today. He has a timer on the wall for it
already (running his 300W heat lamp). My 750W hydronic heater came two days
ago. Jim likes to test these.
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keesan
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response 123 of 191:
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Feb 9 23:19 UTC 2013 |
The smoke alarms (photoelectric, 120V with 9V battery backup, interwired) are
going in today (or at least one) on round wiremold boxes except for one on
plain octagon box in the cellar (required inhabitable attics and basements,
which I interpret as including uninhabitable basements which contain HRVs
and dehumidifiers subject to electrical fires).
The round 14-3 was too fat to fit through a hole so we had to replace it with
a newer flat type. We will use it where there is only one not two cables.
The alarms need to go on the ceiling at least 4" from a wall or corner, away
from drafts or air supplies, stoves, combustion appliances, sinks and other
sources of steam, and dust. Or on a wall with top between 4 and 12" from
ceiling (which we will probably do upstairs, or use wiremold). They come with
cute little pink shower caps to use while dusting. You should test them
weekly, change the batteries once in a while (yearly?), and dust them when
they get dirty so they will keep working. The GFCI and AFCI breakers also need
to be tested regularly. I wonder if anyone does any of this testing. We
have little stickers to go on the electric panels about these
breakers/outlets.
We got photoelectic ones for detecting smoldering fires (smaller particles).
The radioactive ones detect more active fires. Some alarms use both. The
next building code (not yet adopted by Michigan) will require sprinkler
systems. The alarms are needed in bedrooms, in hallway to bedrooms within
21' of bedroom doors, one in basement, one on any other floor. We will do
the kitchen despite the possibility of false alarms. Photoelectric give fewer
false alarms and these can be turned off for a few minutes while you are
chasing burnt food smoke out the doors and windows. I want to know if I am
burning food, from another room.
One alarm in, two more to go today, then a junction box for them.
This one is wearing its cute little shower hat to keep out cement dust.
The house is overheated due to this hot weather (nearly 30 F) and the sun
shining in. UP to 53, which feels even warmer because the walls are 53
due to insulation. We have been taking off layers and I am not even working
very hard, just fetching cable rippers, linesmens' plyers, nipples, green wire
nuts, green grounding screws number 32 or smaller, No. 14 bare wires for
grounding, brown tape and scissors, No. 1 philips screwdrivers.
Now we are going to drill another hole because it proved too difficult to put
even a skinny 14-3 through an existing hole with four cables in it (one No.
10, one No. 12, two 14s). Once all the wires are in and approved, I think
we use firestop caulk in the holes around the wires. First they get stapled
to the nearest board. Once the hole is drilled I go back to unrolling the
coil of 14-3 and pushing it through a hole in the bottom of a stud wall into
the crawlspace, where my friend pulls it in the direction of the cellar
ceiling to attach to an octagon box and another smoke alarm.
I was told to push through another ten feet, then pull back another ten feet.
Now to choose a spot on the ceiling and install the alarm. One alarm per
hour is splendid progress - we were missing a nipple for the 2nd of 3.
--- One cellar smoke alarm in, but we will need to move it to put on the
cellar ceiling before we do the outside faucet there. And the light.
Lunch break (6:30 pm).
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keesan
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response 124 of 191:
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Feb 10 13:56 UTC 2013 |
Events at http://a2reskilling.com from 11 to 5 today include:
tanning animal hides, bike repair, ropemaking from wild plants, darning,
singing in circle, writing haiku, making sauerkraut, presure cooking,
mushroom logs, home funeral, and meditation. Our friend's fiberglass-cement
demo was not even on this list but there is a PDF schedule of events.
Rudolph Steiner School Newport Rd south of the river 11 to 5.
Bring your own lunch, or at least your own plates and cups, or buy compostable
ones there (Zero-Waste).
I should go pack lunch and supper. This evening's schedule is a toilet repair
for the neighbor and another smoke detector.
These reskilling events seem to take place at least twice a year. Anyone with
a skill is invited to teach it. What skills would grexers offer?
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keesan
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response 125 of 191:
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Feb 10 13:58 UTC 2013 |
I thought I had posted my architect's invitation to her event: how to make
a fiberglass-cement house (demo in a yogurt cup):
I wanted to invite you to my session in the Reskilling Festival this
Sunday Feb 10th, 4pm, where I'll be giving an update on the progress
of our house, and mixing up a bit of our Glass Fiber Reinforced
Concrete mix so that people can experience what it is like for
themselves as they make a small pot out of it (materials cost $2).If
you want to RSVP for my session, you can go to
http://hourschool.com/courses/mi-passive-house-update-diy-gfrc-pots-in-ann-
arbor-mi,
and if you want to see what else is at the festival, see the
festival site http://a2reskilling.com/
Christina
My builder will also attend so we will be working a short day (eve).
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keesan
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response 126 of 191:
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Feb 11 00:10 UTC 2013 |
We had an interesting day at the reskilling event. Talked to a newly
appointed U of M mycologist who was selling mushroom spawn, someone
demonstrating a very small steam turbine, sang rounds in a circle, and ran
into several people we knew including the electrician who kindly took a look
at our electrical panel and other wiring briefly once and said he would call
this week about checking out our work before the inspector comes.
Our friend showed a slide show of how she is building her house (complete with
mud and ice) and then she mixed up a batch of fiber-reinforced cement (the
new drill burned up in the process but she had brought the old one) which
people played with in yogurt cups and also troweled onto a piece of styrofoam.
One guy was really into it and wanted to cover the whole board so I suggested
she hire him to help build the house on weekends (he agreed). He works for
his father who trims trees and is big and strong. Our friend is small and
stronger than many men. My 'builder' left at 5:00 to fix our neighbor's
toilet while we cleaned up so I am not building today.
There were people selling all natural organic vitamin-rich catfood and
'no-sugar' dog cookies (made with honey) and caps made from wool they spun
themselves and books about gardening with native species. SOmeone from
Project Hope in Ypsi talking about their Feb 16 seed exchange. Two women
making soil blocks to plant seeds in (just dip the tray in water) and someone
tanning animal hides. A sock darning class. A freecycle table where I found
shoes, wool sock and gloves for our architect friend and two winter jackets
(medium tall so not as baggy) and overpants for Jim and a wool hat for me.
A big meditation class which we skipped. Ditto on bike mechanics and repair.
Rudolph Steiner school is full of student drawings, paintings, sculpture,
mosaics, on all the walls and even outdoors. A fun place. There was even
a biodynamics table. Lunch was not organic (most of it) or whole grain but
the dishes (please donate 10 c each) and utensils were compostable.
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keesan
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response 127 of 191:
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Feb 11 13:35 UTC 2013 |
The 'glass' fiber in the cement is actually zircon fibers, a few inches long.
The tape for cement board is probably the same. Glass does not hold up to
alkaline environments.
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slynne
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response 128 of 191:
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Feb 11 15:47 UTC 2013 |
LOL. If you are going to put honey into something, you might as well put
high fructose corn syrup into it since at a molecular level, they are
almost identical. As a sugar addict myself, I have been sucked into the
idea that even though HFCS is bad, honey somehow is good since it is
"natural". Not so! It is still sugar.
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keesan
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response 129 of 191:
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Feb 11 16:06 UTC 2013 |
I have noticed that products sold in the store advertised as low-fat are
always high in sugars, and those advertised as low-sugar have sucralose and/or
other artificial sweeteners. ALDI now sells Stevia powder.
The cat cookies looked quite good enough for humans - all natural ingredients.
The dog biscuits had things like kale and blueberries along with locally
purchased organic chicken from Sparrow Market. People treat their pets as
family.
Builder has not shown up or called yet so we may have time to learn to empty
the waste and refill the yellow toner in the color laser printer so I can
print out over 20 pieces of evidence in color of neighbors' misbehavior.
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tod
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response 130 of 191:
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Feb 11 18:57 UTC 2013 |
I am drinking Diet Rite. I think there is a vending machine on the
other side of a Black Hole and that's where this cola comes from. It's
like "hungry water" from the RO system which leeches nutrients on its
way through the pipes.
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keesan
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response 131 of 191:
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Feb 11 19:29 UTC 2013 |
Does anyone reading this know how to get hold of tsty?
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tonster
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response 132 of 191:
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Feb 11 19:55 UTC 2013 |
regards,ts 734,817,1982
tsty@cyberspace.org
tstytest@gmail.com
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rcurl
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response 133 of 191:
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Feb 11 20:12 UTC 2013 |
Re #127: Did youy mean ziercon or zirconia fibers? Zircon is zirconium
silicate (a semi-precious mineral) and zirconia is zirconium oxide. I believe
it is zirconia that is made into fibers for various purposes.
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rcurl
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response 134 of 191:
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Feb 11 20:20 UTC 2013 |
Re #128: You are quite right that HFCS and honey are very similar in
their composition, but it is misleading to say "It is still sugar.".
There are many kinds of "sugar". "Sugar is the generalised name for a
class of sweet-flavored substances used as food." They differ in taste
and behavior as nutrients. There are even indigestible sugars.
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