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mcpoz
Southwest Trip report Mark Unseen   Nov 15 18:14 UTC 1995

I just returned from a driving trip through the Southwest.  I will list below
the major highlights of the trip and I will rate each one on a 0-10 base
(10=best).  This may be lengthy, so if you don't want to wade through it, go
ahead and quit:

1.  Cental City Colorado:  (Rated @ 0)
    This was a quaint mountain town but I was unaware that the entire city
     has become a continuous casino.  What a waste.  Also, no gas for sale,
     all the stations have been shut down by the EPA according to a local.
     One good point, we did see two small herds (totaling 27) mountain sheep
     on the expressway.  They were in the side right of way - munching grass.

2.  The Colorado River Valley in Utah (Rated at 8)
    This is the drive from I-70 to Moab, Utah.  As beautiful a canyon drive
    as I can imagine.

3.  Arches National Park (Rated at 9, maybe even 10)
    Simply fantastic.  This park involves a lot of short hikes of medium 
    challenge.  We (My brother Russ and I) walked up to all of the arches
    and some of the walks had us pretty well exercized at 70 F.  I don't 
    think this would be recommended in July/August when temperatures are 
    extreme.  Of all the arches, Sand Dune Arch is the favorite.   A short
    easy 0.4 mile hike takes you to a crack between standing monoliths 
    which are perhaps 150 ft high.  The crack is about 6 ft wide at the 
    most narrow point.  This path takes you to an enclosed "room" open to
    the sky and with an internal large arch.  The room has a sand floor 
    and with the bluest of skies for a ceiling the impact is stunning.
  
    Also, the hike to Delicate Arch is pretty tough, but worth it.  The
    hike is 1.5 miles and takes you 500 ft up to the base of the arch.  
    This is the view most commonly seen on calendars, book covers, etc.

    If you visit this park, plan on 4-6 hrs and you will be glad you did.

4.  General note:  Utah terrain is more rugged than anything I have seen.
    The drive from Green River to Richfield was beautiful.

5.  Bryce Canyon:  (Rated at 7)
    This is really beautiful.  The only reason I listed it as low as 7 is 
    that it offers similar scenes throughout.  If you see this one, it is 
    a must to get out of your car and walk down into the formations.  This
    reminded me of the "drip castles" which you can make on beaches, except
    that the colloration of the formations is bright red, white, and some 
    tan.

6.  North Rim  of Grand Canyon.  (Rated at 8)
    This goes beyond the limits of vision.  The canyon is too deep to see the
    bottom and too wide to see across.  Plenty of great views.  We walked out
    onto a viewpoint and took lots of pictureds.  Breathtaking!
    Huge Ravens and Mountain Jays are there to pose for you.

7.  Zion National Park (Rated 9)
    Every view is better.  I shot a lot of film here.  The drive is does not
    require getting out of your car.  Huge cliffs, 2300 feet high.  At the
    Zion Canyon, there is a path which you can walk (1.5 miles or so) which
    takes you right to the point where the canyon narrows to a slit.  This
    is a must and it is an easy walk.  On this path were groups of deer which
    had no fear of people.  We walked within 6 ft of them.  Stunning walk
    with a river at the floor, sheer walls, animals, vegetation, hanging
    gardens, birds, and other wonders.

8.  Death Valley - (Rated at 10+, the best of all)
    If you go here, do it during winter.  It was warm in November, I know
    it goes over 120 F in August.  Everything here is unbelievable.  I'll
    describe a few:
    a)  Dante's View - This is a drive up to a peak which overlooks the 
                        entire valley.  You can see its 100 mile length by
                        30 mile width.  It has fascinating pastels and the
                        white salt floor at the South end is easily seen.
                        The view is from 6 or 7000 feet and resembles the 
                        view you get in an airplane.  This view alone is 
                        worth the drive.  
     b)  20 Mule Team Canyon.  Rough drive, but any car could make it.  This
                        is a narrow, winding drive to a canyon where they 
                        actually used mule teams to haul out Borax.  It 
                        makes you think you are on a different planet.  
     c)  Badwater - 287 feet below sea level.  This is a huge salt flat
                        and is a must.  You can park your car and walk out
                        to and onto the salt flat.  There are pools of salt
                        water so salty the shores are white crystals.  These
                        pools have salt tolerant plants growing which look
                        like junipers, but on close inspection, they are 
                        some form of succulunt (sort of like a wierd jade
                        plant)  There are also lots of tiny animals living
                        in the salt water and also algae.

                        The sickening thing was the huge abundance of 
                        cigarette butts on the white salt paths.  
      d)  Artist's loop - a nice drive with "Painted Desert" type of scenes.
                         We stopped and climbed up to a viewpoint and saw
                         a lizard which was about 12" in length.
      e)  Natural bridge - A medium tough walk of 1 mile to see a stone 
                         bridge.  Pretty!  (No match for Arches)
      f)  Mustard Canyon - We missed this one - Anyone see it ?

9.  Furnace Creek - Small town in the valley - has gas and groceries.

10.  Stove Pipe Wells - Huge sand dunes 

11.  Las Vegas and Laughlin - Casinos - (What can I say!)

12.  Hoover Dam - (Rating 8)
     This is a great tour.  For $5 you see a film made at the time of the 
     construction, go down into the power generation station, walk the tunnels
     and all with a guide who is very helpful.  

13.  Carlsbad Caverns - (Rating 9)
     Unbelievable!  The main room has the equivalent of 14 football fields
     of floor space.  The cave floor is 550 feet below the surface of the
     top of the mountain.  The cost is $5 and you can go on a self-guided
     tour on a well guarded paved path.  The formations are fantastic and 
     the size is immense.  At one point, you have a ceiling to floor height
     of 360 ft.  The only disappointment is that the lighting is ok, but 
     low, and the brilliant coloration you see in all the photos is not
     apparant.  You see soft pastel tones, which may be more intense in
     photos (I'll let you know).

14.  Varous Ghost towns:
     #1.  Oatman - lived in, not really my idea of a ghost town.  Lots of
          "Sell crafts to the tourists" shops.  The buildings were old and
           probably authentic, but fixed up for the tourist trade and 
           as a result, not too appealing.  Two notable things in this Arizona
           town.  (1) Wild Burros roam the street.  (2)  Their Policeman, 
           was strutting the main street in full uniform including a red  
           beret.  
     #2)  Goldroad, AZ.  All that's left is stone foundations on private
          property.  Signs all over - "No trespassing."  
     #3)  Signal, Az.  - Could not locate.
     #4)  Stanton, Az.  - Found it!  Rough dusty road, but it was worth it.
          Stanton is now a working gold field owned by an association called
          "The Lost Dutchman Mining Association."  One of their members, Bob
          Blevens took us on a tour of the hotel, Opera House, and Bar (all
          adobe).  Bullet holes in the wall, etc.  He said that $100 million
          on gold was taken out of Stanton in 1863-1900 at $10/oz.      

          Original pieces of wall paper and other cloth wall coverings were
          still there.  If you visit this, you can see miners at work at
          the creek.
     #5)  Jerome - Not a ghost town - this is an artist's colony hanging on
          the side of a steep mountain.  Lots of nice galeries and 
          neat restaurants.  Would be a nice visit if you are driving 
          through AZ.  Also in Jerome are a museum and a commercial ghost
          town, which we did not visit.
     #6)  Charleston AZ.  We located the area and found Charlestown by walking
          down the railroad tracks until we found a siding.  All that is left
          is paths and foundations.  Some of the scraps of building material
          indicate that this may have been a thriving town relatively recently
          (40's?).  We found ashphalt shingles, and there was lots of
          concrete.
     #7)  Harshaw - Saw one adobe building with a tiny attached corral.  Also
          attached to the building was something resembling a modern carport.
          This "Carport" had adobe pillars, and it's roof was continuous with
          the main roof of the house.  We feel it was a covered hay storage
          area to keep winter snow and ice off of the hay bales.  
     #8)  Mowry, AZ.  We found one foundation - nothing else.
     #9)  Gleeson, Az.  Some current occupancy.  A Jail building and a school
          foundation remain.  Nearby also are an adobe house and an adobe
          long building (Warehouse?  Barracks?)
          One occupied house was immaculatly kept and whitewashed.  The yard
          was neatly arranaged with rocks, all of which were whitewashed..
     #10) Sunglow, AZ.  No Trace.
     #11) Paradise, Az.  No Trace - there was an active campground at the 
          site.  
============================================================================
Well, that's it.  If you are thinking of going to those areas and want more
detail from me, drop me a note.  
11 responses total.
rcurl
response 1 of 11: Mark Unseen   Nov 15 18:42 UTC 1995

I appreciated your appreciation (or lack thereof) of these sites...but
putting a "Rating" on them makes me feel like....you did in Central City.
remmers
response 2 of 11: Mark Unseen   Nov 15 22:51 UTC 1995

Sounds like a wonderful trip. I've done western trips but have seen
very few of the spots you visited. Reading your descriptions makes
me want to see them all (maybe even Central City).
mcpoz
response 3 of 11: Mark Unseen   Nov 15 23:59 UTC 1995

Well, I thought the "rating" would be at least one person's view of the
relative worth of the trip.  Some trips result in endless shops selling junk
like "made in Korea" genuine Indian pottery and not much else.  The higher
the rating, the more I would recommend someone include them on their agenda
should they be in the area.

Take it for what it's worth and if it isn't worth that much, my feelings will
not be hurt.
rcurl
response 4 of 11: Mark Unseen   Nov 16 07:15 UTC 1995

Well, I went to Las Vegas, so I can't talk.
denise
response 5 of 11: Mark Unseen   Nov 29 16:28 UTC 1995

Thanks for sharing, I enjoyed readiing this item!!  :-)
mcpoz
response 6 of 11: Mark Unseen   Nov 30 01:59 UTC 1995

you're welcome & thanks for the comment
mcpoz
response 7 of 11: Mark Unseen   Nov 30 02:13 UTC 1995

Update:  Got my pictures & they met all my expectations.  Some look close
to calendar quality.  The only ones not to my expectations were the Carlsbad
cave pictures.  Mine were ok, but the pro's who do the postcards did a LOT
better.
rcurl
response 8 of 11: Mark Unseen   Nov 30 07:22 UTC 1995

They use four foot diameter flashbulbs  :).
mcpoz
response 9 of 11: Mark Unseen   Aug 7 01:43 UTC 1996

Well, it's planning time again.  We are getting together plans for the 1996
southwest tour.  This time it will be in October and we are making a
b-line to Salt Lake City.  Next we will be zigzagging South seeing 
all the sights we can find between Salt Lake City and Las Vegas.
Then across the Calif. desert  to San Diego, and back through Yuma
and along the remote back roads at the extreme southern border to somewhere
below Tucson.  Then up to northern Arizona and Northern New Mexico, again 
seeing all the sights we can.    

Once we get to Salt Lake City, our objective will be to minimize highway 
travel.  Unimproved roads are a welcome challenge.  

Next step:  Plan a route on all the back roads to maximize the things we
can see.  Any suggestions? 

mcpoz
response 10 of 11: Mark Unseen   Sep 21 14:33 UTC 1997

Ok, it is time for roadtrip 97.  This time we are planning on driving to
Cheyenne, Wyoming, then driving along the Colorado-Utah border to Northern
New Mexico.  From there, we will cover Southern Utah and Northern Arizona. 
We will go through some very remote areas of Nevada, then Southern California.
Back to the California/Arizona border down to Yuma, then along the US-Mexico
border to Douglas, Arizona.  From there, we will go to White Sands &
Alamagordo, NM, and down to Big Bend Texas.  From Big Bend, we will stop at a
few small places in West Texas, then head home.

The topics for this trip are:  Photography, Rock and Fossil Collecting, 
                               National Parks, Ghost Towns, Indian ruins,
                               Roller Coasters, Las Vegas, Bird & Animal
                               watching and Southwestern Cuisine.

We are getting detailed maps and trying to find other sources of info for
things to do and see along the way, but if any of you have "must see" 
recommendations along or 100 miles or so either side of this path, we will
certainly pack it in.

Sidenote:  Last year, an old high school buddy located me by my internet 
           address.  I haven't seen him since HS graduation in 1961.  On our
           1996 roadtrip, we (My brother & I) picked him up in Utah and 
           he toured all the national parks we could find in Utah for the 
           next 3 days.  We made a big loop and took him back to Nephi, Utah,
           where his truck was and we went on our way.  It was a great 
           reunion, and we are picking him up this year in Cheyenne and he
           will stay with us to Las Vegas.  

Again, any advice for things to see or do will be put in the planning
book!


mcpoz
response 11 of 11: Mark Unseen   Sep 21 14:37 UTC 1997

One additional item:  We plan to visit several "slot canyons" on this trip.
You may recall seeing a lot of publicity recently when a group was washed away
when they ignored storm warnings.  These are extremely narrow deep canyons
which are little more than cracks in the rock.  About the only way to get a
photo in these is to have the sun directly overhead, and I understand that
only lasts a brief time.
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