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| Author |
Message |
scott
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The gas plumbing item
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Jan 15 01:37 UTC 1997 |
OK, this is where we talk about natural gas, propane, etc.
Plumbing, uses, hazards, whatever.
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| 10 responses total. |
scott
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response 1 of 10:
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Jan 15 01:40 UTC 1997 |
I'm going to be rearranging my kitchen a bit. The main change will be moving
the stove. Right now, the stove sits right in front of where the gas feed
comes up out of the (concrete slab) floor. This is a little annoying, since
the stove can't be shoved all the way back before it hits the gas pipe. What
I want to do is move it about 4 feet to the next wall, so that it sits right
under a vent hole I can feed a hood vent thru.
Question is, can I just use more flexible gas hose, or do I need to attach
more rigid pipe to get closer to the new location? I'm assuming I don't have
to do this under the floor.
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mcpoz
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response 2 of 10:
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Jan 17 23:31 UTC 1997 |
I don't know the code, and the only gas work I have done is with rigid black
pipe. If you decide to go with the rigid pipe, Hackney Hardware in Dexter
will cut and thread pipe to any length you specify and it is quite
inexpensive.
FYI
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rcurl
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response 3 of 10:
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Jan 18 18:20 UTC 1997 |
Our gas dryer is connected to the supply line (1/2" black iron pipe) with
6-8 feet of 3/8 aluminum tubing. The installation instructions say "If
local codes permit, it is recommended that the dryer be connected to the
gas supply with approved semi-rigid metal tubing or listed connectors." I
installed it (after moving it from another house) - but that was in 1982,
so I don't recall where the tubing came from, though I have a feeling it
came with the dryer. Why don't you go down to an appliance store and
"look" at gas stoves - and when the saleperson comes over explain the
setup and ask how it would be connected?
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scott
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response 4 of 10:
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Jan 18 20:32 UTC 1997 |
No subterfuge in that approach... I'm not really moving the stove, I'm
removing the current stove and installing a new one in the new location.
(although I might buy the new one earlier than moving the stove location)
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n8nxf
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response 5 of 10:
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Jan 18 21:15 UTC 1997 |
r.e. #3. Don't trust what the sales person tells you! Call the city building
inspector instead. I'd go with rigid black pipe as far as practical and up
to about 36" of the semi-rigid stuff sold for the purpose at hardware stores.
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rcurl
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response 6 of 10:
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Jan 19 05:28 UTC 1997 |
The real point is - the semi-rigid tubing (aluminum or copper) is much
less resistant to physical damage than the pipe, so its use should be
minimized. I've alsl installed a home furnace, and piped it in in iron
right up to the furnace, where there was a very short flexible tube.
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scott
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response 7 of 10:
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Jan 19 14:42 UTC 1997 |
Most of the additional length will probably be buried under a cabinet, though,
making it very hard to service.
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scott
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response 8 of 10:
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Aug 10 13:21 UTC 1997 |
Well, after many months I'm back to working on this project again. The stove
will remain in the same place, which means that I need to move the gas outlet.
Currently it sticks out of the floor about 8-10" from the wall. What it looks
like I need to do is chip away the concrete to where the elbow is underneath,
then make a channel back to the wall and reroute the pipe. Complications
include not wanting to have to uncover the whole length of the pipe, and that
the concrete at the wall is footing rather than the slab that the pipe
currently comes out of.
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n8nxf
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response 9 of 10:
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Aug 11 13:02 UTC 1997 |
If it's done to code, your gas pipe will pass all the way through the slab
before the elbow (or tee?).
The slab should be above the footing by about 4 inches. Also, the footing
must be 42" below ground level so that it's below the local frost line.
This may help you decide if your project has posibilities.
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scott
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response 10 of 10:
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Aug 13 17:19 UTC 1997 |
I looked at it again last night. It's not that bad, so I'm going to live with
it for now (I can always do it next year). I'll just have a handy little
shelf behind the stove to fill up the gap (less than 6").
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