response 1 of 32:

Feb 21 13:47 UTC 1998

Anybody got a spare 220VAC stove plug?  I've got a big theatre light to play
with, but it needs more than 15 amps.

response 3 of 32:

Feb 21 21:11 UTC 1998

I'm looking for the heavy power kind:     \   /

                                            |

This is what 95%+ of all electric stoves in America use.  An old one from 
an old stove would be fine.

I'm hoping to just get one free, instead of buying a new one.  I could afford
to buy a new plug, but the idea behind this item is to enlarge everybody's
"junk box", which is where you typically go for an odd bit to complete
something (and all the odd parts left over or from a beyond-reasonable-repair
item go into the junk box).

response 5 of 32:

Feb 23 05:31 UTC 1998

If you shorten the coil its resistance will lower, and it will draw more
current and get hotter, probably causing other damage.

response 7 of 32:

Feb 23 20:51 UTC 1998

A crimp connector might work. I haven't tried it, but the ends of heating
elements usually end in crimp connectors.

response 9 of 32:

Feb 24 05:28 UTC 1998

Probably...or a stainless steel. I tried to find some in an electronics
catalog, but they only have plated copper ones, which can't stand high
temperatures.

response 11 of 32:

Feb 25 01:24 UTC 1998

I tried cutting off the end of a fuse to make a replacement for the ceramic
standoff, but those fuses are not made of anything that I've run into before,
they are not any ordinary ceramic.  A carbide does'nt do anything.  I used
a composite cutoff wheel, that doesn't do anything.   I presume it would take
a diamond wheel, and I have a 10" diamond wheel but I don't particularly want
ot use that on it.  What I need is an insulator from something else, about
the size of a lifesaver.  Anybody have one?  (The whole fuse, type "S" is too
big).  I will try a combination of solder and crimping next time I get around
to fixing that other heater that kept burning out.

response 13 of 32:

Feb 25 17:19 UTC 1998

Is this 'female plug' going on the end of a cord, in which case it could be
called a cord cap (gives you something to plug into).  What is the diameter
of the pin circle.  What is a 'stage plug'?  Grainger catalog is helpful. 
An Insulgrip connector goes on the end of a cord.  A receptacle (female) goes
in the wall.  They come in different sizes.  Plug = male cord end.  Jim has
a couple cord ends, odd ones, around somewhere.  Diameter of pin circle? 
(Assuming three straight pins as above).  Wall or cord end?  If it is a cord
end, to be used on-stage, there are twist-lock types that don't come apart
accidentally.  You can get a subscription to Grainger by buying once there.

response 15 of 32:

Feb 25 20:23 UTC 1998

stage pin plugs are not availablt in grqainger because they are used only in
theatrical application and the industry is kind of isolated (though becoming
less so).

                 _    _      _
                | |  | |    | |
                | |  | |    | |
              |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
              |                 |
              |                 |

above is what the end of a stage pin plug looks like.  the pins are
cylindrical, and from left they are neutral, ground and hot (for standard
size).  they also come in a size about twice as large which is a 50/60 amp
size and the pin configuration for those is different.  

 end view :

                |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
                | ( )   ( )     ( ) |
                |___________________|

response 17 of 32:

Feb 26 12:13 UTC 1998

When someone suggested Grainger to me as a source of something obscure, I went
there.  The guy there told me I had to be buying for a business.  (Then he
proceeded to put me down as representing a certain large organization in the
area, on the grounds (I think) that they'd never notice.)

response 19 of 32:

Feb 26 12:19 UTC 1998

Grainger tends to be list-price, but convenient.  Once you get set up with
a business account, you can just call and have stuff delivered.  They then
mail an invoice to the company.

Stage plugs will likely *only* be available from theatrical supply places.
This is an old, non-safety design, now used strictly because of inertia.  The
original is very Karloff; a block of bakelite and 2 big copper pins.  There
are now grounded, locking versions, but there is still the basic look of a
standard set in the early days of electricity (Theatre was a *very* early user
of electric light, BTW).  Some places build recently (Huron High School comes
to mind) use safer twist-lock connectors, at the cost of compatibilty (they
have a hard time renting more instruments for big shows, since they either
have to change connectors on the rented lights or else keep a bunch of
adapter cables on hand).

response 21 of 32:

Feb 27 01:03 UTC 1998

oh, forgot to mention:  the pins on a stage pin plug are split, allowing for
adjustment of their size to improve contact and tightness of fitting.
Thanks, Scott.  :)

response 23 of 32:

Feb 28 07:52 UTC 1998

Generally, if I need a company name and am not representing my employer or
any consulting clients, I just say that my business is called Stephen Gibbard.
I don't claim to be a corporation, and as long as I'm using my name no DBA
is needed.