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ball
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Pushbikes
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Jun 21 17:51 UTC 2004 |
I've been thinking for a while of buying a bicycle. Some
years ago a standard groupset for a mountain bike / all-
terrain bike was something like SIS (Schimano Index System).
What is today's equivalent (basic indexed groupset). What
alternatives exist (can I buy something a more reliable for
a little more money?) Can I still buy a non-indexed
groupset?
How can I tell if a bike will take standard, interchangeable
parts? Are there certain brands to avoid (I know that early
Raleigh bikes used proprietary stuff, is this still the
case?)
"Puncture-proof" non-pneumatic (I'm not sure if they were
solid, foam or something else) tyres used to be sold in
Britain under the 'Octopus' name. Is something similar
available in the U.S?
I probably want a disc brake for the rear, possibly also for
the front. I want some strong wheels because I'm very heavy.
Who makes good rims these days? Througout my new bike,
strength is more important than weight. Constructive
comments, observations and discussion are invited.
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| 70 responses total. |
scott
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response 1 of 70:
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Jun 21 18:07 UTC 2004 |
This is a little off your questions, but do look into recumbent bikes.
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ball
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response 2 of 70:
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Jun 21 18:35 UTC 2004 |
Bents are cool, but not appropriate for me at this time.
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keesan
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response 3 of 70:
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Jun 21 23:43 UTC 2004 |
Try a used mountain bike with wide tires. You can probably find one for
$10-25 at a yard sale. Get a library book on bike repair and adjust the
brakes and gears yourself. Murray and Huffy are low-end and have one piece
cranksets (the things the pedals screw into). If you can find something with
two-piece it will be better quality. This will let you get into shape and
determine what it is you really want.
We like the handlebars about level with the seat, but some people who don't
go very far or very fast like them higher so they can ride upright. Make sure
the handlebars and seat are adjustable to your size and riding style as bikes
come in different sizes and handlebar shapes. The standard mountain bike
brakes are pretty much interchangeable and work much better than the old
10-speed center-pull style, even on a Huffy. You probably want to look for
something with a long seat post and some space between where the top bar hits
the thing the handlebar plugs into and where the lower bar hits it.
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gull
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response 4 of 70:
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Jun 22 15:01 UTC 2004 |
Murray, Huffy, Roadmaster, and similar department store brands are best
avoided, in my experience.
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keesan
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response 5 of 70:
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Jun 23 04:36 UTC 2004 |
They are heavier than the more expensive brands, but work fine as
transportation around town. What is your experience with them? Jim rode a
Murray for a while, with steel wheels. He needed a handicap so I could keep
up with him.
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gull
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response 6 of 70:
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Jun 24 20:23 UTC 2004 |
I had a Roadmaster. It was heavy, to be sure. The last straw was when
the plastic rear dereilleur snapped off while I was trying to climb a
steep hill. I bought a used Schwinn LeTour and was amazed how much
easier it was to ride, and how much better everything worked.
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keesan
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response 7 of 70:
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Jun 25 04:23 UTC 2004 |
Roadmaster being Sears? I have never seen a plastic derailleur. The Murray
was quite sturdy.
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gull
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response 8 of 70:
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Jun 25 13:22 UTC 2004 |
I'm not sure who sold Roadmaster bikes. I got it used. Roadmaster is
one of those big Taiwanese companies that specializes in making
cheaply-constructed stuff for discount stores. I think Western Auto
used to sell them.
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ball
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response 9 of 70:
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Jun 26 06:25 UTC 2004 |
Re #6: So you'd recommend Schwinn? Do they take standard parts?
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gull
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response 10 of 70:
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Jun 28 15:42 UTC 2004 |
My Schwinn seems to have pretty standard parts -- Shimano dereilleurs,
etc. I'm sure you can buy much better bikes, but Schwinn isn't a bad
bet if you need something low-end to get around on. I prefer a bike
that isn't too expensive or fashionable to leave locked in a public place.
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ball
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response 11 of 70:
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Jun 30 07:00 UTC 2004 |
Re #10: Thanks, I'll have a look at Schwinn.
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keesan
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response 12 of 70:
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Jun 30 15:00 UTC 2004 |
All our mountain bikes (used) have interchangeable parts. You need to match
any indexed shifters with the correct number of rings on the rear wheel,
except a 5-shifter will even work with a 6-ring wheel. I still recommend
getting something cheap and used to learn on and decide what you do and don't
want after that. I thought I wanted narrow tires, but somewhat wider ones
let me ride on sidewalks, and at night on bumpy roads. You can try out
different handlebar types if you find someone with old parts willing to work
with you.
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ball
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response 13 of 70:
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Jun 30 16:26 UTC 2004 |
Re #12: That's good, hopefully it suggests that bicycle
manufacturers over here are using standard fittings. I
used to ride, so I've a fair idea what I'm looking for:-
- Standard Part Fittings,
- "Robust" is more important that "lightweight",
- Fairly tall (I'm about 193cm or 6' 4"),
- Non-pneumatic tyres if possible,
- Not fussed about suspension,
- Disc brakes a plus (on rear wheel certainly),
- Wide handlebars are a good thing,
- Basic, but fairly solid groupset (preferrably non-
indexed, but I don't know that they're made any more),
- Perhaps a sealed, one-piece crank,
- Comfy saddle (might be a challenge, I have no butt).
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keesan
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response 14 of 70:
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Jul 1 02:56 UTC 2004 |
Tires without tubes are heavier and less comfortable. You could instead just
carry a patch kit or even a spare tube.
Wide handlebars make it hard to get the bike through narrow spaces such as
doorways. We always chop ours off narrower and like the short straight type.
We ride with handlebars at about seat height and this takes some weight off
the seat. Wide saddles can be painful if you ride a lot. Rubber brakes made
in the past 20 years or so work very well - why disk brakes? Do you plan to
maybe ride to work? If not, how far and on what surface? By groupset maybe
you mean shifter - we have some old non-indexed shifters that you could have
if you know how to assemble bikes yourself.
If you want sturdy, get steel handlebars and cranksets. Jim has broken both,
also he has broken several frames. He came back from one trip carrying 85
pounds of things acquired along the way (and camping gear). Steel wheels
don't brake as well, but maybe the rims would be stronger than aluminum.
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ball
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response 15 of 70:
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Jul 1 06:42 UTC 2004 |
Re #14: I've repaired enough punctures for one lifetime. The
extra weight is proportionally insignificant (you've met
me, you've an idea what I'm talking about! ;-) Wide handle
-bars give me more leverage to get myself out of rutts,
furrows and the like. Disc brakes because I weigh a lot
and don't have fond memories of traditional brake blocks.
Work is too far away for me to ride there and back. My
hope is to ride for leisure and exercise. Mostly on gravel
and dry dirt I expect, although I'm sure tarmac is
inevitable too.
The groupset includes derailliers, shifters, chainrings,
cogs and probably some other things that I have forgotten.
I'm not sure if non-index shifters will work okay with
derailliers from an indexed groupset.
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keesan
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response 16 of 70:
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Jul 1 15:57 UTC 2004 |
Jim has combined shifters and derailleurs from various bikes and made them
work. The 'traditional' brakes (center pull) did not work that well but for
the past 20 years anything but the Murray category has been using caliper
brakes, attached on one each side, which work really well - have you tried
those? Sorry you don't live close enough for Jim to make you something. We
ride our used mountain bikes on lots of gravel and dirt. If you avoid glass
punctures are rare. Do you keep the tires inflated all the time, so that they
don't end up stretching and having the valves dragged so they are not at a
right angle to the tire?
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ball
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response 17 of 70:
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Jul 1 17:25 UTC 2004 |
Re #16: Most of the brakes that gave me trouble sound (from
your description) like caliper brakes. Only my most recent
bike is likely to have had centre-pull type (are these
mostly wire, with the blocks on small metal hinge/bracket
things that attach directly to the forks?). I used to keep
my tyres pressured, but still managed to get plenty of
punctures from thorns, flints and things.
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keesan
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response 18 of 70:
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Jul 2 03:39 UTC 2004 |
Jim says if it is two separate attachments to the forks that is cantilever
(not caliper). Caliper has one attachment at the vertex of the Y of the fork
or whatever ou want to call it. Calipers come in center pull or sometimes
side pull and those are the ones found on old Murray bikes.
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tod
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response 19 of 70:
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Jul 2 15:58 UTC 2004 |
This response has been erased.
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keesan
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response 20 of 70:
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Jul 3 23:51 UTC 2004 |
I have tried granny gear and it is easier to get off and push.
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tod
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response 21 of 70:
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Jul 6 19:26 UTC 2004 |
This response has been erased.
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gull
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response 22 of 70:
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Jul 14 03:45 UTC 2004 |
Contrary to keesan's experience, I've had far better luck with
center-pull brakes than with side-pull ones. The side-pull ones would
never pull in evenly so one side usually wanted to drag on the rim.
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keesan
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response 23 of 70:
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Jul 14 12:45 UTC 2004 |
The cantilever side pull brakes are what I like, not the type found
occasionally on older bikes where they are attached similar to center-pull.
Cantilever are attached one on each side and can be adjusted separately.
I need to figure out my mine are squealing when I brake so I can use them at
night and near other people. Something to do with the angle?
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gull
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response 24 of 70:
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Jul 20 15:23 UTC 2004 |
Could be old, hard brake pads. The rubber loses its resiliancy as it
ages. Try a new set.
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