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Grex > Cars > #127: How do you buy a used car? |  |
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jep
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How do you buy a used car?
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Mar 31 02:50 UTC 2003 |
Last Agora, I entered an item discussing the on-line WWW sites for
buying new cars. In that item, I mentioned I'd probably start an item
about used cars, and there seemed to be interest in the topic. So,
here it is!
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| 40 responses total. |
jep
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response 1 of 40:
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Mar 31 03:21 UTC 2003 |
My background: I know very little about cars. Generally speaking, I
want it to go forward and stop, and I like good gas mileage. I'm just
not a car buff.
Usually I buy cars only when desperate to replace my existing car.
Just now I've got a reliable 1992 Ford Taurus -- I bought it from
tpryan -- and it shows no signs of not fulfilling my needs. However,
maybe it's time I grow up a bit and start planning for things, instead
of reacting to disasters.
So, many of my questions have to do with, how do you decide what kind
of car to buy? There's me, and my 6 year old son. No one else much
rides in my car.
It seems to be impossible to buy a car without passenger airbags if
it's much newer than my Taurus, but I'm against the idea of
buying "safety" devices from which I have to protect people,
particularly him. A passenger airbag is a deadly threat to John. I
really doubt there's anything I can do about it, but can someone tell
me when they started installing these dangerous devices in all cars?
Other than that, when I need another car, I'll want good gas mileage,
reliability, and enough room for two people to use the vehicle to go
on a week long vacation. I don't want a truck, SUV, or any sort of
van. John prefers four doors to two; I'm not guaranteeing to him that
our next car will have four doors though.
My biggest problem, reading the list of classified ads, is that in
most cases, I don't know what the different cars are like. I don't
know what they look like, what to expect from them, or how much they
are worth. I know how to use www.consumerreports.com and www.kbb.com
so I can find out about a specific car, but as for browsing the list
of cars in the paper, I see lots of unfamiliar names in there. I
cannot tell, upon seeing an ad anywhere, if the car is worth my
attention for the price being asked. I have to look up every single
one.
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lowclass
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response 2 of 40:
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Mar 31 03:25 UTC 2003 |
Along with that car, and maybe even long BEFORE that car, you
should buy a booster seat. Six year old boys, and grils as well, end
up seriously hurt in accidents with seat belts because of the seat
belts.
It's on my list. Right at the top. I'm tired of sticking my
son in the middle seat of my 92 van, and there isn't a passenger side
airbag to worry about.
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gull
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response 3 of 40:
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Mar 31 04:19 UTC 2003 |
Cars made in the last couple of years that do not have a back seat have
airbag disable switches. If the car has a back seat, current thinking
is that young children should be there instead of the front, anyway,
because they're at substantially less risk of injury.
I'm not sure when passenger side airbags became common. They were
optional, for a while. My guess is you'd have to go back before 1995,
maybe even earlier. It depends partly on whether you're looking at cars
or light trucks, since airbags came relatively late to trucks.
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gelinas
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response 4 of 40:
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Mar 31 04:24 UTC 2003 |
Newer airbags are also less violent than the early ones.
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rcurl
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response 5 of 40:
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Mar 31 06:03 UTC 2003 |
I've bought two used cars in the past year. The first one was totaled by
an out-of-control semi, which led to the second one.
The absolute criterion for the used car(s) was that it was a station wagon
(but not a light truck), had a manual transmission, had 4WD or AWD (and
had air bags and ABS, for safety). This reduced the eligible cars that we
never looked at the used car ads in the papers, but used the web to set
the criterion search. The choice came down to Subarus. From there, it was
pretty easy to find all the used Subarus listed on the web within 200
miles. We ended up buying both of them from a dealer in Ferndale.
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jor
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response 6 of 40:
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Mar 31 12:00 UTC 2003 |
Why not keep the Taurus?
It's going to need repairs. Well, so is every
other car.
A ten year old car is way easier to get service on
than a new car. It's routine work for a place like
Goodyear or Sears, when they bend over backwards
to make it convenient for you. Parts are amazingly
available.
They talk to you. It's a great learning experience.
It's satisfying to spend little money, and drive away
in a *noticicably* improved vehicle (as opposed
to spending comparable money on a payment for
a newer car, and not getting *any* improvement
at all).
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johnnie
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response 7 of 40:
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Mar 31 13:49 UTC 2003 |
I'll reiterate and concur with what was said above--air bags shouldn't
really be an issue, 'cuz the little one should be in the back seat, in a
booster.
Consumer Reports magazine's annual car issue is on newstands now. It
has a handy guide to used cars and their reliability. It also has a
breakdown of reliable used cars by price range, and a list of used cars
to avoid.
Also, there are a number of used car sites on the web, good for getting
an approximate price range for the model you're interested in (as well
as photos, since you say you don't often know what a particular car
looks like).
When it comes time to buy, have your mechanic give a good once-over.
Many places will do this for free. Also check out www.carfax.com, which
for a small fee can give you a complete title history on a car.
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jazz
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response 8 of 40:
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Mar 31 14:29 UTC 2003 |
The formal write-ups in Consumer Reports are pretty good. The one-page
summaries that they have in their buying guides aren't all that useful,
though. I'd look up the reviews in a library (or on their website, which is
available for a nominal fee) if possible.
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mynxcat
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response 9 of 40:
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Mar 31 15:23 UTC 2003 |
all the cars I buy are used. Mainly because I never know how long I'm going
to be in this country. The first car I bought from my room-mate. I had seen
it around for 8 months, it never had any problems, I bought it, and except
for brakes, I never had any problems. The second was an Audi. That was a
mistake, only because the maintenane was so high. The third was the first car
I went out and bought on my own, with nobody else's input. It was a 93 Mazda
Protege. One of the best buys ever. That car took me everywhere, till I
totalled it. Now I have a Toyota Celica. It's a little rundown looking,
expecially since the antenna broke in the car wash, and it has a little rust,
but it runs great.
My priorities in buying a car is mileage, it has to be japanese, and the
engine has to sound healthy. I don't know too much about cars, but I think
I make a pretty good choice when I buy one. I always expect around 500
dollars of :unanticipated" maintenance after every buy, which is just about
right. But I've been happy with my purchases so far.
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jep
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response 10 of 40:
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Mar 31 22:33 UTC 2003 |
Thanks for the advice on booster seats, however the topic is "buying
used cars".
re resp:6: I concur that I ought to keep the Taurus for a while yet.
It's not going to last forever, though. I drive about 30,000 miles per
year. Maybe I'll get another year out of the Taurus. Maybe I'll find
another car and then be able to sell the Taurus before it's flat out
dead. Maybe I'll even find some reason to *want* a particular car,
rather than just whatever goes forward and usually stops.
Right now, my notion is to spend a couple of months trying to find out
how to buy a used car. Then, when I need to replace the one I've got
now, I won't need to walk 30 miles each way to/from work for a couple
of months while I figure out how to buy another car. (Or do what I've
always done in the past, picked the nearest car for sale and bought it
on the spot.)
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michaela
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response 11 of 40:
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Mar 31 23:09 UTC 2003 |
I look for something that is comfortable, and I check to see if I can
reach the gas pedal without being right on top of the airbag. I'm
still short enough to get blasted by it, but some cars allow more
distance than others.
For example: In a brand new Neon, I have to sit with my chest about
eight or nine inches from the wheel to reach the pedals with my knee
slightly bent. The same position in my 1997 Cavalier had me twelve to
fourteen inches from the wheel - HUGE difference, in my opinion. A lot
of this, I'm sure, has to do with design. A Neon is a sub-compact car,
and a Cavalier is a regular compact.
That said, I prefer compact or sub-compact cars for comfort and gas
mileage. They also tend to cost less.
Once I note comfort level, I look at mileage, repairs, history, ease of
use (do I have to reeeeeeeach to adjust the stereo, does the back seat
fold down for extra trunk storage, etc), and colour. Yes, I'm
picky. :-P
I tend to lean toward GM cars. My Cavalier was the best car I'd ever
driven, and mine and my friends' have/had lasted for a Very Long Time.
Mine had 150,000 miles on it when it died, and those were mostly pizza
delivery miles. My friends' have gotten anywhere from 175,000-200,000
with an equal number of in-town and highway miles.
I'm looking for a new car right now, and I've been pricing out new/used
Cavaliers all over lower Michigan. I'm pretty loyal to them. They
corner like they're on rails, I can drive ten hours and not get
uncomfortable, you can pack a squillion suitcases into the trunk and
back seat, and the gas mileage is outstanding.
And they come in purple. :)
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jaklumen
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response 12 of 40:
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Mar 31 23:52 UTC 2003 |
shortie.
I remember test-driving a Prius and really liking it because there
really was elbow room.
I remember there was this 1985 diesel Buick my friend drove (I had a
chance to drive it a few times).. can't remember what model, but it
had super gas mileage, sports supension, and was big enough to be very
comfy on long rides.
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jaklumen
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response 13 of 40:
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Mar 31 23:53 UTC 2003 |
btw, he had to mechanic the hell out of it.. he had to buy two cars..
one for the good engine, and one for the body, and then get parts from
there. But he's a good mechanic.
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tod
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response 14 of 40:
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Apr 1 00:01 UTC 2003 |
This response has been erased.
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gull
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response 15 of 40:
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Apr 1 00:23 UTC 2003 |
Yeah, those GM diesel cars were real maintenance hogs.
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michaela
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response 16 of 40:
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Apr 1 04:22 UTC 2003 |
Re #12 - I'm not THAT short. I'm 5'6", but I still fall into that "dangerous"
category. :-P
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carson
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response 17 of 40:
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Apr 1 06:01 UTC 2003 |
<carson considers fashioning some off-color comment about chests and
distances, but thinks better of it>
(it's been many years since I bought my one and only used car, but what
I've learned is that every make and model of car has certain quirks and
qualities of which one should be aware before purchasing. for example,
I'll probably never buy a Ford or a post-1990 Mazda because the engines
tend to blow head gaskets and I have a notorious habit of doing the same.
there's no sense in doubling that quality and hoping the two cancel each
other out. by the same token, if I ever purchase a Honda Civic, I will
make sure to get the timing belt changed at the appropriate intervals
instead of "pushing it.")
(I will probably buy a used car within the next year or so, so I'm glad
to see an item like this.)
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jaklumen
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response 18 of 40:
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Apr 1 07:12 UTC 2003 |
resp:15 What the hell are you talking about? He bought the car as a
mechanic's special-- he didn't own it before. There was an article in
Car & Driver some time ago about that particular car being a well-
engineered engine for fuel economy and an example that you didn't need
new and small.
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jmsaul
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response 19 of 40:
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Apr 1 07:17 UTC 2003 |
Re #14: Pull the other one...
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mdw
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response 20 of 40:
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Apr 1 07:56 UTC 2003 |
Early GM diesels definitely had a "reputation". I don't know how much
the later ones improved, but when gas became relatively cheaper again
and pollution control more important, they disappeared quite fast.
Timing belts are important to replace on many newer cars (and not just
Hondas). In many newer engines, the piston & valves have "negative"
clearance -- the design relies on the piston never reaching the top of
its stroke while the valve is open. If the timing belt breaks, one or
more valves is likely to remain open, impacting some piston, with
expensive results. My volvo has the last year of B230F engines that
didn't have this feature. Presumably I should also get slightly worse
gas mileage but I could push the timing belt change interval, if I
didn't mind risking being stranded.
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omni
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response 21 of 40:
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Apr 1 16:17 UTC 2003 |
Buy it from someone you really trust.
I bought the Toyota from my friend, and part time employer Lindsay.
The first nite I had it the starter quit in Monroe. He came up to
Monroe, started the car, then took it to the shop and had the starter
replaced, which he paid for. Not a bit of trouble, other than the
usual crap that Toyotas go through when they're a little long in the
tooth.
I would buy another car from him. He says that this car will last
a very long time with proper maintenence.
My last excursion to Cleveland was fun. I only used 4 gallons of
gas to get there. I love little cars.
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tsty
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response 22 of 40:
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Apr 1 16:52 UTC 2003 |
jep - i'll relate the methodology i was taught and which i witnessed
working soooooo well over the years.
go to a NEW car dealer!
find a salesman you get along with.
tell him/her you want to buy a USED car.
deflect the 'go over there' kneejerk answer.
tell him/her you wnat to buy a USED car from him/her - a trade in
from aother of the customers who is buying a NEW car.
the salesman who does lots of business has customers who buy
new cars every year or so and trade in their old one. the salesman
knows who takes care of their cars based on the series of
tradeins and their resales.
my dad would give the *new* car salesman some particulars that
were importnat. then he wold say no quibble on price, just assurance
that hte car-to-be-bought would be in excellent conditoin nad have
come from one of that salesman's regular new car buyers.
then he'd tell the salesman to call when the 'right' car showed up,
no rush, no problem.
EVERYbody benefited with this method! the new car buyer (good tradin)
teh salesman (two cars sold for the grief of one) our family (we got
a car thst had a quality background analyzed by someone IN THE BUSINESS
every day).
... adn teh cost was a used car price, not a new car price eventhough
dad got damn-near-new cars every time.
the 'particulars that were importnat' of course, could be any criteria
YOU find importnat, obviously.
over the 25+ years i watched this process there was only one car that
needed any help before boought - and that one had a barely-recognized
problem (at that time). rear axle whine, a problem i helped solve
for cadillac (part of a large team but i was inthte thick of it) as
thecars' interiors got quieter and quieter.
peripherally, that dealership got cutting edge educatoin identifying
and solving that problem and their service shop business eally took
off - even the non-cadillac level cars got fixed.
the only reason i know aofthe peripheral sutff was that three years
afterward, when dad went to get another 'new' one, the salesman brought
out hte service manager who related the unexpected benefits of my work
from the last time.
(wanna talk about a puffed-head little kid-engineer basking in that
sort of spotlight? oh, boy, let me tell ya ...............! <g>)
there aren't to many times i can remember being *that* inflated but
that isone of them.
anyway, the buying-a-used-car secret s out now - enjoy.
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rcurl
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response 23 of 40:
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Apr 1 17:05 UTC 2003 |
I understand the "secret", but I found that the saleman at the dealership
I dealt with was the same person for new and used cars. That is, they
sold both, and all the salespersons had full information about both.
In this situation the "secret" is irrelevant.
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tsty
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response 24 of 40:
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Apr 1 20:39 UTC 2003 |
hmmm, guess i didn';t solve *all* the axle-whinners, errr whine problems <g>.
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